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Routes in Shannon Falls Wall

Cardhu Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlotte's Ride to the Sky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chewbacca T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirty Dicky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jump to Light Speed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Klahanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Local Boys Do Good T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
No bolts TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skywalker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Decision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Urine too Deep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Glen Payan 97'
Page Views: 2,722 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mike Teschke on May 10, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A nice hand crack. Worth a little more attention than it receives. Could use a litle cleaning in the crack but still fun as is.

Location [Suggest Change]

Just left of a steep treed gully, about 150 feet to the right of Klahanie crack. Starts up an easy left facing corner then up into a hand crack.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Cams .5 to #2 Camelots and nuts. Save a #1 or #2 for the top. Can be rapped to a treed gully above and to the right of the start with a 60m rope.

Photos

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.8
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.8
Fun route. We used two ropes to get off. One could rap the side with a single 60m and get off I think. Chain anchor. I placed a #3, but one could do without it. Aug 13, 2011
Chris Keefe
  5.8
Chris Keefe  
  5.8
fantastic climb. A bit slimy at the top, and still fantastic. Apr 1, 2013
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
Pleasant surprise, this route a great complement to Klahanie Crack. Short distinct crux where the crack crosses the dyke, cruisey elsewhere.

A 70m just barely reaches the base when rapping. For top-roping you might want to think about extending the anchor a bit. Don't worry about the rope lengths too much though, as the first five meters are low 5th. Very down-climbable. Jun 27, 2013
Can be lowered with a 60m to the roots at the right. Super fun. Hop on this while in the area. Aug 17, 2014
Ryan Lynne  
 
Really good climbing and definitely worth doing if you are in the area.

Note that it is much longer than it appears from the bottom as it keeps going over the crest. Bring some larger pieces for this top part that is not visible from the ground (BD C4's #2 and #3).

Best to have a 70 meter rope for this one but a 60 meter can be used with some shenanigans. Use the treed slope off to the right of the climb.

Tie knots in your rope for this one or better yet have your belayer tie in. Jun 6, 2016
natsdad
  5.8
natsdad  
  5.8
Hand jams. Finger locks. Stemming. Good gear throughout. This is a great, long, user-friendly route on solid rock. And now it is the first pitch to a 5 pitch long multi-pitch route. Nice! Aug 29, 2016
Connor Culver
Bellingham, WA
 
Connor Culver   Bellingham, WA
 
Real fun 5.8. Would definitely recommend a 70 M rope. I was lowered with a 60m rope and didn't make it to the ground. There's a ledge to the right made up of roots and dirt that I made it down to, about 15 feet up to the right of the base of the right. Was able to walk down from there. TIE A KNOTS AT THE END OF THE ROPE IF YOU PLAN ON BEING LOWERED OR RAPPING WITH A 60 4 days ago

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