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Routes in The Papoose

Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hairpin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Gardens T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laid Back T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Limbo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mercury Vapour T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mushroom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obsession T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pamplemousse T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Papoose One T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Survival Enhancement T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Transit of Venus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

Multipitch wall with many great lines on it. The top gives you some great views of the Chief. Definitely worth checking out if you will be in Squamish for a while.

There's quite a lot of retro-scrubbing and new route activity going on (2011/2012). Hanging Gardens, for example, is now a clean 10+ that is reportedly very good with a hard (but protected) slab crux.

Many new routes have been added since the 2012 guide. See this topo for more details

Getting There

The Papoose is about a half mile to a mile south of the Chief camping area. Park at Shannon Falls. Walk down the road about 100 yards, and then dive down a short hill towards the wall.

Descent

McLane's book shows a walk-off to the south. As Andy notes, the walk-off to the north is straightforward and works well. Follow the cliff edge north until the trail becomes obvious. Some routes can be rapped, but unless noted in the route description, don't assume you can get down with a single 70m.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Papoose

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 108
Mushroom
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
Laid Back
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 102
Hairpin
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Mercury Vapour
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Transit of Venus
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 70
Centerfold
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 16
Papoose One
Trad 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Hanging Gardens
Trad 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Mushroom
 108
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Laid Back
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Hairpin
 102
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Mercury Vapour
 25
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Transit of Venus
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Centerfold
 70
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Papoose One
 16
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Hanging Gardens
 13
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Papoose »

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Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
A well worn (and marked) descent path heads climber's left from the top. It eventually hits the road where you began the hike to the wall, and you can follow that back to your packs. Aug 4, 2009
The Papoose is bigger and better than it looks from the road, definitely worth checking out. May 11, 2012
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
Jesus, tried the South walkout as recommended by McLane's guidebook. WTF. Sketchy at the best of times, then after you've gone sufficiently far down the trail just starts to evaporate. It's completely overgrown, we hiked back up and found the great trail that heads North, which is pleasant and obvious. Aug 7, 2012
Tried the rap line just south of the top-out of Hairpin. Reaching the first station was barely possible when hitting the knots on the end of our 70m. My partner and I both spent a lot of time looking for intermediate anchors but saw nothing. If you go this route with a 60 you will not make it. Sep 9, 2014

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