Elevation: 293 ft
GPS: 49.668, -123.166 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 37,860 total · 223/month
Shared By: The Gravel Diving Albatross on Nov 15, 2006
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford
Access Issue: COVID-19 - Guidelines Details

Description

Multipitch wall with many great lines on it. The top gives you some great views of the Chief. Definitely worth checking out if you will be in Squamish for a while.

There's quite a lot of retro-scrubbing and new route activity going on (2011/2012). Hanging Gardens, for example, is now a clean 10+ that is reportedly very good with a hard (but protected) slab crux.

Many new routes have been added since the 2012 guide. See this topo for more details

Getting There

The Papoose is about a half mile to a mile south of the Chief camping area. Park at Shannon Falls. Walk down the road about 100 yards, and then dive down a short hill towards the wall.

Descent

McLane's book shows a walk-off to the south. As Andy notes, the walk-off to the north is straightforward and works well. Follow the cliff edge north until the trail becomes obvious. Some routes can be rapped, but unless noted in the route description, don't assume you can get down with a single 70m.

22 Total Climbs

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Location: The Papoose Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Papoose

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 17
Condo Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
The Groove Tube
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 142
Mushroom
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Strata Fees
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 31
Laid Back
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 137
Hairpin
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 35
Mercury Vapour
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Mercurial Crossing
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Income Suite
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 89
Centerfold
Trad 3 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 22
Papoose One
Trad 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Obsession
Trad 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
Hanging Gardens
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Not Too Slabby
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Limbo
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Condo Crack Backside Crags
 17
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
The Groove Tube Backside Crags
 4
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Mushroom Main Area, Frontside
 142
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Strata Fees Backside Crags
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Laid Back Main Area, Frontside
 31
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Hairpin Main Area, Frontside
 137
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Mercury Vapour Main Area, Frontside
 35
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Mercurial Crossing Main Area, Frontside
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 4 pitches
Income Suite Backside Crags
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Centerfold Main Area, Frontside
 89
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Papoose One Main Area, Frontside
 22
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Obsession Main Area, Frontside
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Hanging Gardens Main Area, Frontside
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Not Too Slabby Backside Crags
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Limbo Main Area, Frontside
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Papoose »

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