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Routes in The Papoose

Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hairpin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Gardens T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Laid Back T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Limbo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mercury Vapour T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mushroom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obsession T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pamplemousse T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Papoose One T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Survival Enhancement T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Transit of Venus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Tim Auger, Dan Tate, 1965. FFA: Don Serl, Vern Coulomb, Greg Yavorski, 1978
Page Views: 5,200 total, 39/month
Shared By: The Gravel Diving Albatross on Nov 15, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

First pitch is a very interesting traversing 5.8 crack, and a wave like rock. Second pitch is the crux. It is a beautiful thin hands/finder crack and goes at 10a. From there you get a couple 5.9 pitches, and then it eases off.

Location

The route starts near the center of the Papoose. Look for the obvious traversing first pitch. It is very striking and hard to miss.

Protection

2.5 inch and smaller. You will need some runners for the first pitch.
P4 direct - only one move harder than 10a, I thought (but it was heavily chalked when I climbed it, so maybe easier than usual).

P5 - why is the 4th bolt located 8' left of the path of least resistance ? (good route nevertheless, thank you for putting it up) Aug 28, 2016
Ryan Lynne
  5.10a
Ryan Lynne  
  5.10a
This is a super fun multi-pitch and it is very well protected with the exception of the easy 5.6 pitch. The 5.11a slab variation is hard but it is only a few moves and it is very well protected with bolts. Don't be afraid to give it a shot as you can easily aid past the crux. The final 5.10a is also very well protected. This is a great first 5.10a multi pitch.

It is possible to link pitches #2-3 and #4-5 if you do the 5.11a slab variation.

The walk off to the North is straightforward and probably faster than rappelling. Apr 1, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
FA: Tim Auger, Dan Tate, 1965. FFA: Don Serl, Vern Coulomb, Greg Yavorski, 1978
One of my favorite 10a routes in Squamish, and yes the 10d/11a slab is hard, agreed North walk off is good, did it bare foot. Feb 12, 2015
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
Definitely 'the line' on the wall and well worth the short hike in.

Start at the obvious left leaning horizontal crack systems. All belays are bolted.

P1- Tricky climbing across polished rock to a stance belay. 5.8, 130'
P2- Straight up, trending right when options present themselves to a nice little ledge. 5.10a, 80'
P3- Straight up through the bulge (we thought the left side was easiest), then a tricky traverse to a stance belay. 5.9, 60'
P4- Head left towards the tree, then up to a tiny tree, then straight up to the horizontal crack. Grab a small cam where you can get it, as getting to the horizontal is a bit of a move. Ride the horizontal to two bolts on a ledge. 5.6, 80'
P4a- Alternatively, head straight up off the belay for 40' to the same belay on the ledge. 5.10d, 40' (note, this variation can be mossy at the top....)
P5- Straight up the slab passing 5 bolts. After the third, don't get suckered by the dishes our right for your feet, step left or you may have to skip a bolt. 5.10a, 80' Jul 20, 2013
AJV
  5.10a
AJV  
  5.10a
Fairly easy for the grade and extremely safe. This would make a great first 5.10 multi-pitch. The 5.9 roof looked unlikely for the grade, but it was all there. Awesome pitch. Definitely hike off to the north. We were back down in 7 or 8 minutes. If you rapped you'd just be starting your second rap in that time (plus you're potentially interfering with Centrefold). Jul 4, 2013
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10-
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10-
Tons of fun, get on it. Every pitch is different than the last, all great. I agree with Andy, the 10a move felt soft. I grunted more on the bulge on the third pitch (and the final slab, but my slab technique is terrible.)

Leave your small pieces at home, didn't place anything smaller than a yellow Mastercam. Placed a #4 Camalot on the first two pitches though, but you could do without. Accepts big nuts beautifully.

Ignore the McLane guidebook's descent advice, go North not South! Aug 7, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Um, the upper pitches are much harder than 10a when you accidentally do the 10d variation! The Mclane Guide doesn't document the 10d variation very well, so I suspect many climbers unintentionally do it like we did.

That being said, the 10d finishing pitches are awesome and well protected. One bolt is missing a hanger, but the climbing isn't hard there and it is easy to sling a nut on it.

P1 - Fun 5.8 traverse. Don't F the second!
P2 - Awesome series of cracks separated by good ledges trending up. Seemed soft for 10a, but super fun.
P3 - Short but sweet 5.9 crack climbing that moves up and then left to the belay.
P4 - The 10d variation goes straight up. It's pretty technical for the grade. One bolt missing a hanger - thread a nut.
P5 - 5.9 slab climbing straight up. Fun.

Gear - One set of nuts, one set of small cams (nothing extra small needed), double C4s from 0.5 to #3 camalot. Slings.

All anchors are bolted. You could combine the two slab pitches, but it'd be all of a 60m rope. Aug 4, 2009