Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 5 pitches
FA: Tim Auger, Dan Tate, 1965. FFA: Don Serl, Vern Coulomb, Greg Yavorski, 1978
Page Views: 9,438 total · 56/month
Shared By: The Gravel Diving Albatross on Nov 15, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Description

First pitch (5.8) is a very interesting left traversing crack, and a wave like rock.

Second pitch (10a) is the crux, a beautiful 10a thin hands/finder crack that goes left, up, and then right.

Third pitch (5.9) goes straight up from belay through a 5.9 bulge/roof, then up and left.

Standard fourth pitch (5.6R) goes left and up on unprotected 5.6 slab until gaining 5.6 cracks and moving back to the right.

Alternate fourth pitch (5.11a) goes straight up on bolts,
Topo with 10d/11a direct second to last pitch of Papoose One and Hairpin circled. .

Fifth pitch (5.10a) follows bolts up a slab.

To descend, walk off north (climbers left) on well maintained trail.

Location

The route starts near the center of the Papoose. Look for the obvious traversing first pitch. It is very striking and hard to miss.

Protection

2.5 inch and smaller. You will need some runners for the first pitch.

Photos