Avg: 3.4 from 137 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 5 pitches|
|FA:||Tim Auger, Dan Tate, 1965. FFA: Don Serl, Vern Coulomb, Greg Yavorski, 1978|
|Page Views:||9,438 total · 56/month|
|Shared By:||The Gravel Diving Albatross on Nov 15, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
Second pitch (10a) is the crux, a beautiful 10a thin hands/finder crack that goes left, up, and then right.
Third pitch (5.9) goes straight up from belay through a 5.9 bulge/roof, then up and left.
Standard fourth pitch (5.6R) goes left and up on unprotected 5.6 slab until gaining 5.6 cracks and moving back to the right.
Alternate fourth pitch (5.11a) goes straight up on bolts, Topo with 10d/11a direct second to last pitch of Papoose One and Hairpin circled. .
Fifth pitch (5.10a) follows bolts up a slab.
To descend, walk off north (climbers left) on well maintained trail.