Avg: 2.9 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||J. Howe, R. Barley, G Woloski|
|Page Views:||1,419 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Andy Laakmann on Aug 9, 2013|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
All the traverses are well protected for leader and follower.
P1 - Start up Centrefold and at the first bolt start traversing left. Skip the intermediate anchor and go all the way to the nice ledge below the chimney/slot pitch of Papoose One. Two bolts plus a variety of gear. I placed a #3 on the way to the last bolt, but a #4 could be placed a bit higher. Some fun "walk the plank" moves! I ended up approaching the last bolt from below rather than foot traversing, but I'm not sure it was the easy way.
P2 - Great pitch of intriguing face climbing. All bolted until the final short crack to the Hairpin anchor. The moves across the traverse are really cool.
P3 - Easy 5.7 hand crack to the right, past the Papoose One belay, up to a new belay above the small roof.
P4 - Enjoyable and well protected face climbing all the to the top. After the last bolt head up and trend right joining the finishing moves of Centrefold. Gear is required getting to the first bolt and a green camalot can be placed in a final horizontal at the top to protect the second and take the sting off the final Centrefold 5.7 runout.
Topo and details available (2013) Quickdraw Publications
We rapped Centrefold with a 70m in three raps straight down. A 60m route would NOT make the first rap, as a 70m just made it.