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Routes in The Papoose

Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hairpin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Gardens T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Laid Back T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Limbo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mercury Vapour T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mushroom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obsession T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pamplemousse T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Papoose One T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Survival Enhancement T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Transit of Venus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: J. Howe, R. Barley, G Woloski
Page Views: 533 total, 10/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 9, 2013 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

Really fun new addition to the Papoose. As good as any of the other routes there in my opinion.

All the traverses are well protected for leader and follower.

P1 - Start up Centrefold and at the first bolt start traversing left. Skip the intermediate anchor and go all the way to the nice ledge below the chimney/slot pitch of Papoose One. Two bolts plus a variety of gear. I placed a #3 on the way to the last bolt, but a #4 could be placed a bit higher. Some fun "walk the plank" moves! I ended up approaching the last bolt from below rather than foot traversing, but I'm not sure it was the easy way.

P2 - Great pitch of intriguing face climbing. All bolted until the final short crack to the Hairpin anchor. The moves across the traverse are really cool.

P3 - Easy 5.7 hand crack to the right, past the Papoose One belay, up to a new belay above the small roof.

P4 - Enjoyable and well protected face climbing all the to the top. After the last bolt head up and trend right joining the finishing moves of Centrefold. Gear is required getting to the first bolt and a green camalot can be placed in a final horizontal at the top to protect the second and take the sting off the final Centrefold 5.7 runout.

Topo and details available (2013) Quickdraw Publications

Location

Start up Centrefolkd but traverse left after the first bolt.

We rapped Centrefold with a 70m in three raps straight down. A 60m route would NOT make the first rap, as a 70m just made it.

Protection

Plenty of bolts, but a rack is required. Most climbers could get by with a single rack from finger size to #3 camalot. I was happy to have two #1s and #2s camalots on the first pitch.

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