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Routes in The Papoose

Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hairpin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Gardens T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Laid Back T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Limbo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mercury Vapour T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mushroom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obsession T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pamplemousse T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Papoose One T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Survival Enhancement T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Transit of Venus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Axel Reinhold 2003 (lefthand start)
Page Views: 729 total, 12/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Oct 13, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Fun, sporty single pitch right of Centrefold. Pitch of the day for us, a pleasant surprise. I went with some gym climbers who all agreed it was easier than Mushroom, though I disagree. Neat moves do all seem quite gymnastic and balancy rather than jam-intensive.

Start up and right past two bolts through some balancy, well-protected moves. Trend straight upwards along the crack through a short but thought-provoking roof, then haul your way to the anchors through big holds.

Location

Starts twenty meters right of Centrefold around the boulder. Fixed rope takes you to the base of the route, maybe five meters above the trail.

Protection

Two bolts then standard rack to a #3 Camalot

Photos

Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
The missing flake doesn't change the grade IMO, but adds an interesting bolt-protected boulder problem at the start. Honestly, I think the missing flake actually improves the route by making it a little more sustained. Jul 28, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
did this again yesterday, noticed that the questionable flake at the start is now gone and a bolt added. It took a bit to figure out a move to get up to the slanting ledge, a much harder boulder move then it used to be, maybe 10b, I got that clean, and could not figure out why the 2nd bolt was added, the 3rd is pretty easy to get to. I ended up hanging at the roof which I thought easy before, thought it hard to protect, then cleaned it on the way down and could see good placements. Jul 5, 2017
Jpusch
Vancouver, BC
 
Jpusch   Vancouver, BC
 
Awesome route overall. The flake you use early on seems a tad suspect though. I feel it can be easily pulled off by hand as it flexes quite a bit. May 13, 2017
slim

  5.10-
slim    
  5.10-
super fun route, although getting to the first bolt is a tiny bit spooky with the flakes. upper roof is just a blast. good protection, interesting climbing, well worth doing. Aug 5, 2013