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Routes in The Papoose

Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hairpin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Gardens T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Laid Back T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Limbo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mercury Vapour T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mushroom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obsession T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pamplemousse T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Papoose One T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Survival Enhancement T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Transit of Venus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Eric Weinstein, Anders Ourom 1976
Page Views: 111 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tim Bonnell on Aug 8, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

I've described this climb using a 'new' 1st pitch (as opposed to P1 of Survival Enhancement)

P1 (10d): Use some fancy footwork to finesse a seam past two bolts until a reachy move secures a great finger lock. Continue up easy crack to a 3rd bolt and trend hard left to the anchors (same ones as those of Survival Enhancement). 20m

P2 (11b): Climb easy cracks for about 40' until you can clip a bolt in white, smooth rock. Make a tough move through a small roof and continue up on good finger locks to a 2nd, larger roof. This roof is actually easier than the first - there is a rusty old pin under the overhang but a huge jug allows you to place a bomber cam over the roof. Another 20' of easy climbing gets you to the anchor (35m)

P3 (10a): Continue up the crack as it trends left, eventually it peters out and a bolt protects a face move to the anchors. The guidebook has this pitch at 10d but there is no way....it is 10a at the most. (25m).

P4 (10a): move right from the station and climb past 4 bolts to the top. 10m

Descent: either walk off to the north or locate the anchor atop Centrefold and rap as for that route

Location

Starts 5m left of Centrefold

Protection

I'd recommend a double rack to 1" and a single yellow and blue camalot

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