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Routes in The Papoose

Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hairpin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Gardens T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Laid Back T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Limbo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mercury Vapour T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mushroom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obsession T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pamplemousse T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Papoose One T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Survival Enhancement T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Transit of Venus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,243 total, 29/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Aug 14, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


60 Opinions

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Description

Three pitch climb up the middle of the Papoose. A classic route with high quality climbing and good variety.

P1. Follow finger cracks and groove trending left (bolted) to a belay on the narrow, treed 'Moccasin Ledge'.

P2. Perfect hand jams up a groove on the left end of the ledge and through a small roof lead to wild stemming and twin finger cracks. From here, mantle up and left to the belay.

P3. Follow a delicated slab (bolts and small gear) to the top. This pitch is more runout than the first two.
This climb takes a line to the left of a major left-facing corner syst

Location

This route begins in the center of the Papoose and climbs to the left of a prominent left-facing corner at the same height as P2. The quick and easy walkoff (8 minutes) goes down and to the right. It's possible to rappel the route, but some shenanigans are encountered with a 60m rope, and you will likely bother other climbers.

Protection

Cams to 3" and a set of nuts
Ryan Lynne
  5.10b
Ryan Lynne  
  5.10b
The first pitch is pretty easy except for a short 5.10b section that is protected by a bolt. Its a bit awkward but you are right at the bolt.

The second pitch is definitely the crux of the route. The main difficulty is getting up the small roof with the twin cracks. At the top of the twin cracks there is one more short crux at the horizontal where you go left. This last crux is tricky but it is short and it is easier above, look for the foot. Place good gear before and through the the twin cracks.

The third pitch has two runouts, one at the start and one at the very end of the pitch. The first runout can be optionally protected with a small nut and an ok cam placement but it is easy climbing and not really needed. The last run out has no possible protection. At the last bolt traverse out left and then trend back right. As you trend back right the climbing gets easier as the rock is less glacier polished and has more features.

Gear anchor is required for pitch 1, pitches 2 & 3 have bolted anchors at the top. First pitch is short and doesn't require much gear. Second pitch requires small finger to hand sizes to protect the cruxes. Third pitch can be done with only draws, you may however want a small cam or small nut to protect the first runout. Apr 15, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10 PG13
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10 PG13
FA: John Howe, Mike Down, Blake Robinson, 1981
I have to agree with Luke, but the first 2 pitches are great. Feb 12, 2015
Adrian Lazar
  5.10b
Adrian Lazar  
  5.10b
The crux on p2 can be protected with a blue or orange Metollius TCU. Aug 27, 2013
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.10c PG13
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.10c PG13
Great climbing. Stout for the grade. I have never been so runout, not a fan of that. Big fall potential. I think that having double ropes helped extremely with rope management. If you are pushing your grade, you may want to think a bit before attempting this runout climb!

PG-13 Aug 24, 2013
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
 
I thought the run-outs were fairly inconsistent, and the route seemed oddly bolted. Also there are still some old bolts on this route.

Hard for me to think this is top 100. I wouldn't recommend it to friends. Aug 12, 2013
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
A 70m just makes the first rap, but tie knots. Then you can rap straight down to the anchors above the 11c. And then a final rap down. Aug 9, 2013
AJV
  5.10b
AJV  
  5.10b
Beautiful climb. While there is definitely some run-outs, they are on easier terrain and didn't give me much concern (and I'm a bad slab climber...). The pitch 2 hand traverse is not very positive. I didn't place gear for 7 or 8 feet before hitting it and expected it to be good, but it's not great. I ended up taking a pretty good whip from there. When I pulled back up I put in higher gear and found a foot I'd missed. Bottom line - don't run it out for the horizontal break, it's not as good as you'd think. Jul 4, 2013
Adrian Lazar
  5.10b
Adrian Lazar  
  5.10b
What an awesome climb! P2 & P3 are great. P1 & P2 can be linked.

We rapped the route in 2 raps with 2x 60m twins. Jul 18, 2012
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
Being more crack climbers than slab climbers we opted to try the Pinup variation for the third pitch, which takes you to into a dirty corner that feels harder than the 5.9 given by the guidebook(likely due to the moss and pine needles on the face holds and filling the crack). We were able to rappel the route(from the top of Pinup) in 3 raps with a 60m. I wouldn't repeat this variation. Aug 24, 2010
Mike Teschke
North Vancouver
 
Mike Teschke   North Vancouver
 
Fun route. Last pitch is fully bolted, though a bit run out, there is a nice small cam placement between the first and second bolts if the potential for landing on your belayer makes you nervous.
Easily rap'd with two 60m ropes in two rappels. I am not sure if a 70m rope would be long enough for the first rappel off the top. But a 60m is definitely way short. May 25, 2009