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Routes in The Papoose

Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hairpin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Gardens T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Laid Back T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Limbo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mercury Vapour T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mushroom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obsession T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pamplemousse T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Papoose One T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Survival Enhancement T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Transit of Venus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 6 pitches
FA: Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad, 1961. FFA: Eric Weinstein, Anders Qurom, 1974
Page Views: 957 total, 13/month
Shared By: Adrian Lazar on Aug 22, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

A nice option if Centerfold is busy. Shares the same start as Centerfold, p1 (easy 5.10a). P2 (5.8) traverse left and climb an awkward crack. P3 (5.10b) climb up an awkward chimney protected by a bolt. P4 (easy 5.8) traverse left then right. P5 either go straight up on slab (5.9) or follow the dirty crack (5.10a).

Location

Shares the same start as Centerfold.

Protection

Up to 2 inches, full set of nuts. There is a bolt on p1, p3, and a handful on the p5 slab variation pitch.
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
FA: Fred Beckey, Eric Bjornstad, 1961. FFA: Eric Weinstein, Anders Qurom, 1974 Feb 12, 2015
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
A worthy, and engaging adventure across and up the Papoose! You definitely want a follower who is comfortable following traverses though, as there are many.

P1 10b (Centerfold) - Fun, and thoughtful move at the bolt. Gear anchor.
P2 5.8 - Easy traverse to a burly 5.8 crack. And then a delicate traverse to a bolted anchor.
p3 5.10a - Kind of weird getting to the bolt, and a touch dirty. The chimney move is straightforward, but don't fall as the ledge is in play. The upper crack was DIRTY unfortunately, and I had to dig our a placement or two. But it is fairly easy. Bolted anchor.
P4 5.9 - The traverse into Hairpin is easy (5.8) and well protected for leader and follower. And you then get the 5.9 move on the Hairpin pitch. Bolted anchor.
P5 5.6 - Easy, but fun (and runout). Left and up past the trees. Then straight up to a cool hand traverse crack back to a bolted below.
P6 5.10a - Solid slab action.

Gear: Nuts, double cams finger size to #3. I definitely used the #3 camalot unlike the contributor above.

We rapped Centerfold with 2 double 70m raps, but there is an easy descent to the North. Aug 17, 2012