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Routes in The Papoose

Centerfold T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hairpin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hanging Gardens T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Laid Back T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Limbo T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mercury Vapour T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mushroom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Obsession T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pamplemousse T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Papoose One T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Survival Enhancement T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Transit of Venus T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Nick Jones, Tim Holwill 1992
Page Views: 187 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tim Bonnell on Aug 8, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Survival Enhancement is yet another excellent route at the Papoose, offering a well-protected variety of crack and slab climbing.

P1 (11c): Climb a crack to a bolt at about 10' and make a tricky mantel move. Link discontinuous cracks for another 30' until some thin slab takes you out right past a couple of bolts. Trend slightly left to the anchor. (20m)

P2 (11b): Climb the hand crack for about 40' until you can clip a bolt located in a patch of very smooth white rock. Move up to a horizontal break on good holds and make a long reach to a so-so finger lock that is used to pull the mini-roof. Once over the roof, move right onto the face in an airy position and climb past two bolts to join the top of P2 of Centrefold. A great pitch (30m)

P3 (10a): Climb the 3rd pitch of Centrefold.

Descent: either walk off to the north, or 4 30m raps will get you down


The start is located 10m left of Centrefold. It is identified by a single bolt at about 10'. Note: there is a new climb about 5m left of Centrefold (with 2 bolts down low). This pitch goes at about 10d and will also get you to the top of P1


A single rack from blue Metolius to #2 Camalot, with doubles for the finger size stuff


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