Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||FA (via right start) Ed Cooper, Dave Hiser, 1961; FFA (via right start) Don Serl, John Witmayer, 1978; FFA (p1 direct) John Howe, Blake Robinson 1980;|
|Page Views:||127 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Nathan Collins on Aug 25, 2019|
|Admins:||Kate Lynn, Nate Ball, Mark Roberts|
- As of 22 Mar, The Chief parking and hiking has officially been closed.
- It is highly likely that Canada will see government imposed isolation like many Countries in Europe, Asia, and major US states.
We trust the climbing community are following provincial guidelines including social distancing, self-isolation, hygiene, not travelling, and reducing risk in all their activities to relieve the burden on the health-care system.
Although it is currently ideal spring climbing conditions in Squamish, we are encouraging climbers to engage in alternative activities. Please consider training at home, low impact outdoor pursuits such as running/hiking, or supporting the climbing community by doing some light trail maintenance or crag cleanup.
Vancouver and non-local climbers – we need your support in this. Squamish is a small community and we have limited resources at our hospital. We need 100% of those to help our community members in need of medical care due to COVID-19. We have a few cases already in Squamish so we anticipate that all the resources and more will be needed before we are on the far side of this pandemic.
Thank you for doing your part to protect yourself, others, and the community.
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
p1: (same as Centerfold p1) climb cracks to a thin bolt protected crux corner, then more cracks to a ledge. Gear anchor. 5.10b.
p2: (first 2/3rds same as Centerfold p2) climb an easy hand vertical hand crack (5.8?), and then a crux flare followed by a hand traverse left a few feet and and a mantle. Surmount a bulge and then trend right up an easy ramp to a bolt anchor under a roof. Beware the gigantic hollow flake on the ramp; you probably don't want to place pro behind it. 5.10b.
p3: clip a bolt up and left from the anchor, then face climb left to good holds then up and back right to gain left leaning corner. Climb the corner to bulge with a bolted anchor above. The corner looks intimidating from below, but there are lots of face holds for feet, making it mostly ~5.8 after the crux start. 5.10a.
p4: (not part of the original Pin Up route, but definitely recommended) climb left slanting thin crack first on gear and then three bolts. After the last bolt, follow the path of least resistance left, up, and then back right on an easy ramp. This last part is unprotected ~5.7R slab, and is the end of Centerfold p3. 5.9.