Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: FA (via right start) Ed Cooper, Dave Hiser, 1961; FFA (via right start) Don Serl, John Witmayer, 1978; FFA (p1 direct) John Howe, Blake Robinson 1980;
Page Views: 127 total · 17/month
Shared By: Nathan Collins on Aug 25, 2019
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball, Mark Roberts

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 - NO CLIMBING (Strongly Recommended) Details

Description

Great alternative to Centerfold that includes more crack climbing. The 4th pitch described here is not part of the original route, but appears to have been bolted as part of a newer route called Mercurial Crossing (or The Transit of Venus in other places).

p1: (same as Centerfold p1) climb cracks to a thin bolt protected crux corner, then more cracks to a ledge. Gear anchor. 5.10b.

p2: (first 2/3rds same as Centerfold p2) climb an easy hand vertical hand crack (5.8?), and then a crux flare followed by a hand traverse left a few feet and and a mantle. Surmount a bulge and then trend right up an easy ramp to a bolt anchor under a roof. Beware the gigantic hollow flake on the ramp; you probably don't want to place pro behind it. 5.10b.

p3: clip a bolt up and left from the anchor, then face climb left to good holds then up and back right to gain left leaning corner. Climb the corner to bulge with a bolted anchor above. The corner looks intimidating from below, but there are lots of face holds for feet, making it mostly ~5.8 after the crux start. 5.10a.

p4: (not part of the original Pin Up route, but definitely recommended) climb left slanting thin crack first on gear and then three bolts. After the last bolt, follow the path of least resistance left, up, and then back right on an easy ramp. This last part is unprotected ~5.7R slab, and is the end of Centerfold p3. 5.9.

Location

Shares the first pitch of Centerfold.

Protection

Standard rack to 3'', with small cams very useful on p2.

Photos

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