Avg: 2.9 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||FA John Coope 1965, FFA Kris WIld 2012|
|Page Views:||2,238 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Roberts on Aug 4, 2013|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
P1 (10-): Easy climbing up and left along some left-leaning crack systems. Mantle up into a no-hands rest, move up and left, then directly right underneath the bolt to some face moves. There's a positive water dimple you can get a few pads in, but my 5'6" girlfriend had a harder time than I did reaching it. Felt 5.10- to me, 5.hard for her. Mantle and scramble up and right to chain anchors below a handcrack.
P2 (10+): Left-facing corner. This is the reason you're climbing this route, because you love plugging gold Camalots in slammer hand cracks like a boss. Some great jamming for the first half, then a tricky traverse left past a bolt, then up a thinner crack up and right to chain anchors. This is the crux pitch, the traverse again was really hard for my short partner, she had to aid past the bolt.
P3 (10): Start up and right through some easy climbing up a low-angle dihedral, grab some jugs and clip the bolt. A technical section follows up and left through some shitty finger locks and pinches up to a mini-jug. Onwards and upwards through easier ground and then up through an offwidth (I used a #4 Camalot, but it looks like there are bolts to the right you could mess around with up some features if you don't have anything wide.) Up some face moves to chain anchors.
We rapped off (3 raps with a 60), but apparently you can walk to the left from the anchor and join up with the descent trail. I can't testify to how easy that is, it didn't look particularly well-trodden today.
Good fun, obviously a ton of work went into scrubbing this route. That being said, the combination of some larger trees up high (which need a chainsaw) and the low traffic due to not being so well advertised is leading to a slow buildup of pine needles and leaves in the cracks. This needs traffic so it doesn't get overgrown again before the new McLane guide, so go climb it as a public service to all.
You can read a trip report and check out some photos here: supertopo.com/tr/Hanging-Ga…