Avg: 2.9 from 22 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||FA John Coope 1965, FFA Kris WIld 2012|
|Page Views:||2,847 total · 29/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Roberts on Aug 4, 2013|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
P1 (10-): Easy climbing up and left along some left-leaning crack systems. Mantle up into a no-hands rest, move up and left, then directly right underneath the bolt to some face moves. There's a positive water dimple you can get a few pads in, but my 5'6" girlfriend had a harder time than I did reaching it. Felt 5.10- to me, 5.hard for her. Mantle and scramble up and right to chain anchors below a handcrack.
P2 (10+): Left-facing corner. This is the reason you're climbing this route, because you love plugging gold Camalots in slammer hand cracks like a boss. Some great jamming for the first half, then a tricky traverse left past a bolt, then up a thinner crack up and right to chain anchors. This is the crux pitch, the traverse again was really hard for my short partner, she had to aid past the bolt.
P3 (10): Start up and right through some easy climbing up a low-angle dihedral, grab some jugs and clip the bolt. A technical section follows up and left through some shitty finger locks and pinches up to a mini-jug. Onwards and upwards through easier ground and then up through an offwidth (I used a #4 Camalot, but it looks like there are bolts to the right you could mess around with up some features if you don't have anything wide.) Up some face moves to chain anchors.
We rapped off (3 raps with a 60), but apparently you can walk to the left from the anchor and join up with the descent trail. I can't testify to how easy that is, it didn't look particularly well-trodden today.
Good fun, obviously a ton of work went into scrubbing this route. That being said, the combination of some larger trees up high (which need a chainsaw) and the low traffic due to not being so well advertised is leading to a slow buildup of pine needles and leaves in the cracks. This needs traffic so it doesn't get overgrown again before the new McLane guide, so go climb it as a public service to all.
You can read a trip report and check out some photos here: supertopo.com/tr/Hanging-Ga…