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The Spirit of Squamish
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.5 from 453
votes
Routes in Shannon Falls Wall
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19th nervous breakdown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Aladdin's Magic Lamp S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Austrom, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Cafe Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cardhu Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Charlotte's Ride to the Sky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dark Matter T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Dicky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Friends and Family T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Interstellar T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jump to Light Speed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Klahanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Liftoff T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Local Boys Do Good T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Local Girls Are Bad T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Local Heroes S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No bolts TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Say-Noth-Ka Arête S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Skywalker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Skywalker EPB T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Spirit of Squamish, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Split Decision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Split Dicky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Urine too Deep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches |
| FA: | Aaron Kristiansen, Cameron Hunt April 2021 |
| Page Views: | 27,978 total · 577/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Kristiansen on May 25, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The Spirit of Squamish a new eight pitch 5.8. We’re not saying that it’s a Top 100, but you have to climb the Top 100 Klahanie Crack to start. After which you may discover that this celebrated classic is not the best pitch on the route.
Pitch 1. (5.7, 33m) Climb the celebrated classic splitter hand/finger crack of Klahanie Crack, clip the chains, and climb through the trees to a comfortable bolted belay above the trees.
Pitch 2. (5.8, ~28m) Low angle rock kicks back to steep layback and dinner plate flakes, ending with a tight V groove to the trees above.
Pitch 3. (5.6, ~21m) Climb the wide but easy crack. You could use a 4”cam near the top, or just run it out.
Pitch 4. (5.7, ~20m) Flakes, finger cracks, and wide bolt protected layback angle up left to gain a broad tree covered ledge. Belay on the bolted anchor just before the trees.
Move the belay climbers left to the end of a tree covered ledge (another two-bolt anchor).
Pitch 5. (5.8, 31m) Enjoy the climbing on the hands to narrowing finger crack, but take a minute to appreciate your surrounding on this unique pitch.
Pitch 6. (5.8, 30m) A well bolted slab traverse right ending at a comfortable belay.
Pitch 7. (5.7, ~27m) Steep. transitioning corners open to easy terrain.
Pitch 8. (5.6, ~28m) Up and right. One last move over a steep step.
Descend via the Upper Falls climbers' descent trail to the right as for Skywalker.
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