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The Zen Garden Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in The Zen Garden

Below the Deck 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Kaleidoscope Ledge 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Shakedown Ledge 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Zen Garden Base 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Zen Garden Bouldering 0 / 0 / 0 / 27 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27

Zen Garden Main Area, The 16 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17

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Elevation:	545 ft	166 m
GPS:	49.67146, -123.15522 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	3,500 total · 107/month
Shared By:	Nick McNutt on Aug 4, 2023
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

This significant new crag hosts over two dozen routes, from 1-3 pitches in length, ranging in difficulty from 5.7-5.12a, with the majority falling within the grade range of 5.10a to 5.11a. Primarily, these routes are steep crack climbs with a sprinkling of fine face climbing on the beautiful dyke-infused granite that Shannon Falls is known for.

Expect solid grades, physical climbing, and bring a full rack to 4” with a good set of wires, various micro cams and some extra cams in the common sizes to be prepared to sample what is up there.

Getting There

Pick up a trail between Shannon Springs crag and the upper viewpoint trail. Hike up along the base of the wall trending left and watch for a steep gully with a white fixed line cutting straight up. Follow this to the crag. 10-15 minutes.

54 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Zen Garden

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 39 ● Level Up Trad Zen Garden Main Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 26 ● Open Sesame Trad 3 pitches Zen Garden Base
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 37 ● Sacred Geometry Trad Zen Garden Main Area
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 18 ● Fractal Visions Trad Kaleidoscope Ledge
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 42 ● Soul Shakedown Trad Zen Garden Main Area
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 20 ● Gatekeeper Trad Zen Garden Base
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 22 ● Forest Tourist Trad Zen Garden Main Area
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 12 ● Inshallah Trad Zen Garden Main Area
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 16 ● Kaleidoscope Glasses Trad Kaleidoscope Ledge
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 37 ● Slice of Paradise Trad Zen Garden Main Area
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 23 ● Dhyana Trad Zen Garden Main Area
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 27 ● Half Lotus Trad 3 pitches Zen Garden Main Area
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 9 ● Karma Checkpoint Trad Zen Garden Main Area
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 75 ● Zen Garden Trad Zen Garden Main Area
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 6 ● Cosmic Voyage Trad Zen Garden Main Area