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Routes in Shannon Falls Wall

Cardhu Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlotte's Ride to the Sky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Dicky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jump to Light Speed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Klahanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Local Boys Do Good T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
No bolts TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skywalker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Decision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Urine too Deep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: K. Wild, J. Reilly
Page Views: 1,076 total · 36/month
Shared By: KrisW on May 14, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

A low angled corner leads to steep stemming, and a jug on the arete. Above, the splitter straight-in crack slowly dwindles to a finishing slab move. A bolted rap station is just below the station at the end of the Skywalker traverse. The people you see up there are probably at that belay.

Two 20-25 m raps using a station on the right half way will get you down.

Location

50 m right of the start of Skywalker, a small trail branches left before reaching the main Gobsmacking Wall. This trail less to the base of a low angled corner with steeper climbing above.

Protection

Standard rack from (Metolius) purple tcu to #3 camalot, doubles from yellow tcu to #1 camalot

Photos

Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
Save a .5 BD sized piece for the end of the crack, the lack of a bolt assumes you have good gear at the end of the crack (which is reasonable if you actually have that size at that point). Jul 30, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
I wanted to try this and had seen the commentary on Squamishclimbing. so was planning on doing the old nut trick on the old flattened aluminum hanger and by the time I got there realized I had used my whole rack of nuts. I was really not wild about doing the moves without a bolt, so lowered down for a big nut to use on the hanger. This is a great crack, interesting weird features and very sustained, would be better I think if a new bolt was added. I actually had a bigger run-out below where expecting it to be all finger size, there ia a flaring pod I got a #3 in, then a small ledge where I got a #1, then there is about 15' where you can only fit a #.75 which I used way below. Jul 5, 2017
KrisW
Squamish BC
  5.10c
KrisW   Squamish BC
  5.10c
That bolt was left for historical context, not protection. If you need it for a couple of slab moves above the bomber gear, you may be better off lowering in from the end of the Skywalker traverse to try it first. Aug 28, 2017
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10+
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10+
Hey Kris, thanks for scrubbing this and the other great routes you've contributed to the area.

FYI people are clipping and whipping on that antique hardware - if you want it to stick around as a historical document you might want to put a proper bolt next to it so it doesn't just get torn out of the wall. Aug 21, 2018
slim    
i don't understand the historical context comment. did the FA party use the bolt on the FA, and are now telling everybody else they can live without it? seems odd.... Aug 22, 2018
KrisW
Squamish BC
  5.10c
KrisW   Squamish BC
  5.10c
The historical context is that it was originally partially aid and graded 5.6 A2 back in the 1960’s. The bolt was one of the original aid points from the FA. Not needed to free the moves Aug 22, 2018
KrisW
Squamish BC
  5.10c
KrisW   Squamish BC
  5.10c
The old (decoration) aid bolt has been removed from the top slab moves of the route. It now climbs as it was intended - a 5.10 crack with a few moves of 5.10 slab above bomber gear with nothing but a short, clean fall if you slip. Please enjoy it as is, or get someone more confident to lead it for you. Sep 3, 2018

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