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Routes in Shannon Falls Wall

Cardhu Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlotte's Ride to the Sky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chewbacca T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirty Dicky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jump to Light Speed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Klahanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Local Boys Do Good T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
No bolts TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skywalker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Decision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Urine too Deep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: K. Wild, J. Reilly
Page Views: 517 total, 28/month
Shared By: KrisW on May 14, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

A low angled corner leads to steep stemming, and a jug on the arete. Above, the splitter straight-in crack slowly dwindles to a finishing slab move. A bolted rap station is just below the station at the end of the Skywalker traverse. The people you see up there are probably at that belay.

Two 20-25 m raps using a station on the right half way will get you down.

Location

50 m right of the start of Skywalker, a small trail branches left before reaching the main Gobsmacking Wall. This trail less to the base of a low angled corner with steeper climbing above.

Protection

Standard rack from (Metolius) purple tcu to #3 camalot, doubles from yellow tcu to #1 camalot

Photos

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KrisW
 
KrisW  
 
That bolt was left for historical context, not protection. If you need it for a couple of slab moves above the bomber gear, you may be better off lowering in from the end of the Skywalker traverse to try it first. Aug 28, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
I wanted to try this and had seen the commentary on Squamishclimbing. so was planning on doing the old nut trick on the old flattened aluminum hanger and by the time I got there realized I had used my whole rack of nuts. I was really not wild about doing the moves without a bolt, so lowered down for a big nut to use on the hanger. This is a great crack, interesting weird features and very sustained, would be better I think if a new bolt was added. I actually had a bigger run-out below where expecting it to be all finger size, there ia a flaring pod I got a #3 in, then a small ledge where I got a #1, then there is about 15' where you can only fit a #.75 which I used way below. Jul 5, 2017
Greg Kuchyt
Richmond, VT
Greg Kuchyt   Richmond, VT
Save a .5 BD sized piece for the end of the crack, the lack of a bolt assumes you have good gear at the end of the crack (which is reasonable if you actually have that size at that point). Jul 30, 2016