Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Jan Wasylyk, Bryce Bateman, Paul McSorly - 2000
Page Views: 1,088 total · 16/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Jun 26, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

Slanting left, wider route that branches out left from the start of Cardhu Crack and blazes its own less fun trail. When I did it last week it was quite wet inside the crack, with thriving bryophyte ecosystems deep within. Climb Cardhu instead if it's an option.

Oh, and watch the ends of your rope when you lower as the route's pretty long (shorter than Cardhu, but the ground below the anchors of Dirty Dickey is lower than it is under Cardhu). You might want to lower off to the right, even with a 70m.

Location

Start as for Cardhu, climber's right of the crag. Branch left to the obvious wide crack line after three or four meters.

Protection

It gets wide, but you don't need wide gear because when it's wide it's kind of flary and unprotectable anyways. I have an inkling that if you were to take up a nut tool and scrape away at the non-vascular plant life you'd be able to place some bomber thin gear (blue/purple metolius?) in the back of the wide. Try it. Worst comes to worst you cleaned out the crack and performed a public service to all.

You're looking at a rack ranging from fingers to hands. There's bolts and rap rings at the top

Photos

Dirk Diggler
Boulder, Colorado
  5.8
Dirk Diggler   Boulder, Colorado
  5.8
A 60m rope requires some shenanigans to get off. May 9, 2016
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
This is a really good line- I think I enjoyed it more than Cardhu. The wide bit up top is really well protected with medium gear, and the moves are really fun. Jul 3, 2017
Medic741
Des Moines, IA (WTF)
 
Medic741   Des Moines, IA (WTF)
 
Upper portion easily protectable with #3 and under, felt much more difficult than the .8 to there right! Jul 12, 2018