Local Girls Are Bad
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Carl Austrom, Tim Holwill 1984 |
Page Views: | 1,002 total · 27/month |
Shared By: | Nick McNutt on Apr 15, 2021 |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
An excellent route rivalling “Local Boys”, long neglected due to its 1/4” buttonhead bolts and rusty SMC hangers has been brought into the current millennium with a long overdue rescrub and hardware upgrade. Many will likely climb the first pitch on its own, similar to its neighbouring route.
Pitch 1 (10b, bolts) Start up the left-most line past 2 bolts up to a corner above a tree. Clip a 3rd bolt and move back right past more bolts to the anchor of “Local Heroes”.
Pitch 2 (11a, bolts + gear) Climb straight left along twin dykes past bolts (crux) to reach an excellent, splitter finger crack. At its top, move up and right past bolts to the top of Local Boys P2.
Pitch 3 (10a, 1 bolt) As for “Local Boys”. Rappel the route.
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