Type: Trad, 2 pitches
GPS: 49.66932, -123.15753
FA: Nick McNutt, Colin Moorhead 2020
Page Views: 1,855 total · 27/month
Shared By: Nick McNutt on Apr 18, 2021
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

Using some terrain from the old aid climb “Jeannine”,  the highlight of this route is the excellent 68m rope-stretching finger crack on the second pitch. A 70m rope is mandatory as you won’t make it to the anchor with a 60m! Bring lots of finger-sized gear and many draws, including some extendable ones.

Pitch 1 (“5.8”, 3 bolts + gear) Start as for Local Girls P1 at the far left side of the base area, but continue up the thin crack to Jeannine Ledge and a bolted anchor. Originally graded 5.8 by the party that established “Jeannine” and hard for the grade.

Pitch 2 (10d, 6 bolts + gear, 68m) Start up the finger crack above the belay until possible to climb right along a perplexing dyke past bolts to reach the splitter finger crack on Local Girls P2. Climb it to the top (Local Girls moves right here) and step left to gain another long crack system. While you can take this easing crack to the top (Jeannine’s original finish) the best climbing moves back right across the slab past a lone bolt to gain another long, beautiful finger crack (trust me, do this finish). Rappel slightly climber’s left to a bolted station atop Dark Matter, and two more rappels to the ground. 

Location Suggest change

Starts from Jeannine Ledge via "Liftoff" or the beginning of "Local Girls" p1

Protection Suggest change

70m rope, SR to 1.5", extra finger sized gear, lots of quickdraws. 5 bolts on the dyke traverse, 6 if you clip the one on Local Girls with a long draw.

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