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Routes in Shannon Falls Wall

Cardhu Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Charlotte's Ride to the Sky T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chewbacca T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirty Dicky T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jump to Light Speed T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Klahanie Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Local Boys Do Good T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
No bolts TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skywalker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Split Decision T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Urine too Deep T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 6 pitches
FA: Jean-Marc Savoie, Ryan Larkin, Paul Greenwood - 2015
Page Views: 339 total, 18/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on May 8, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

New multipitch that starts on Cardhu Crack and keeps going. A mix of different styles and difficulties.

This could use some traffic. It was fairly dirty when we climbed it, though I imagine we were one of the first parties of the season. Plenty of pine needles and detritus caught in the cracks, so take a nut tool as you climb.

P1: Cardhu Crack. You'll want to climb past the Cardhu anchors up to a ledge with rap rings. (5.8, 45m)

P2: Climb up and right, then traverse left along an easy hand crack on a ramp. Tree anchor. (5.6, 15m)

P3: Climb right up a diagonal finger crack. The FAist describes this as a hand crack, but you'd need pretty small hands for that to be accurate. Balancy and tough - will get easier when it cleans up with more traffic, but will get harder again when the stumps eventually fall out. When clean, this will be a very nice line. Bolt anchor, belay in a hole. (5.10-, 25m)

P4: The crux pitch is a beautiful and sustained line with tough, engaging climbing. Traverse right, clip a bolt, chimney up through easier ground on larger gear. Clip two more bolts as you begin tackling the main feature: a thin seam in a little mini-dihedral (like two inches of left-facing corner) . Looks improbable for the grade as the seam is almost slammed shut, but eventually the crack does open up slightly to take some small gear (yellow C3s to purple C3s). After your first piece of gear, tips locks and eventually a finger lock or two begin to reveal themselves as the angle eases up. The crack peters out at the top, so slab climb past 2 more bolts (5.10).
This pitch is very balancy and technical in nature. I'd read that you could easily aid through the thin section, but I don't know - you probably could aid through it with enough RPs, but this isn't a french-free-through-a-few-moves sort of pitch. Bolt anchor. (5.11-, 40m)

P5: Climb a short, steep and juggy right-leaning crack to a tree above the belay. Slab and a cool dyke traverse up to the bolt-anchors. 2 bolts, and few cracks for gear every now and then. (5.9 - 35m)

P6: Walk into the forest, then climb a fun, long and easy pitch. Starts off sporty, with many jugs and foot holds and lots of different gear options. As you climb higher, the pitch becomes lower angle and slabbier in nature. Near a bolt there is a 5.8 slab move. I think there was 2 bolts on this pitch, but there may have been 3. Bolt anchor. (5.8 - 40m).

To descend, traverse left, then right up a ramp. From there a faint trail leads south to the Skywalker walk-off.

Location

Start up Cardhu Crack, the rightmost crack in the Klahanie Crack neighbourhood.

Protection

Double rack from red C3 to #2 Camalots, single #3 Camalot, green C3 and purple C3. Slings for the upper pitches.

Photos

- No Photos -
Jean-Marc tells me that the route - named for his cute little 2-year old Charlotte - is actually called "Charlotte's Ride to the Sky".

Here is the pitch breakdown.
5.8, 5.6, 5.10a/b, 5.10c, 5.8, 5.8
I'm not sure about the crux being 5.11. Hanging out while placing the gear is fiddly but it's really not too bad. It's a full letter grade easier than many 5.10ds around - more comparable to Exasperator.
This route is a good indicator that a leader is ready for Sunset Strip or the crux pitch of the Squamish Buttress.
Also a good option for guides vetting clients to take them up the above routes. Jun 22, 2017
natsdad
  5.11a
natsdad  
  5.11a
I climbed this last year and enjoyed it. (First pitch is one of my favorite 5.8 pitches in Squamish.) Bring lots of tiny gear for crux 4th pitch. Last pitch was a bit run out, but I believe that the FAist has added a bolt to address this. Aug 29, 2016