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Routes in Slhanay (The Squaw)

Astride my Indian Queen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Babies in Kailand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chicken Hawk T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviant's Games T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Face Your Creator T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Feather, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Flight Simulator T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Frayed Ends of Sanity S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Godforsaken Land T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b A0
Great Drain, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Game, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jungle Warfare T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Photophobia T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pipeline T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Squeamishness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Supernatural T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
XTC Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Robin Barley, Bruce McDonald, Peter Shackleton ('95)
Page Views: 6,575 total, 58/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 12, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

An excellent and well-protected journey featuring a variety of movement. A classic climb for sure.

  • P1 (10d) The first pitch is long and steep (150+ feet), but fortunately protects well with a standard rack. Felt soft for a 10d, but that is what the guide gives it. A moderate lieback (hands) takes you to a short blank section and then to a finger crack. Traverse out the finger crack to the base of another hand crack. Up the hand crack and continue up until you get to the bolted belay. I thought the finger crack and first bit of the hand crack was the crux, and it seemed soft for 10d.
  • P2 (5.8) Take the low angled crack up and to the right. I passed the bolted belay and continued all the way up to the base of the steeper lieback crack of the next pitch and built a belay. Bomber hand size gear is available for the belay.
  • P3 (10c) Up the corner. Starts moderate and gets progressively harder all the way to the next anchor. One bolt protects the start of the crux. Bomber pro the whole way, but the final moves to the anchor are a touch exciting.
  • P4 (10c) Super fun, steep, juggy climbing past two bolts and then a long 5.8ish right-trending ramp. The first bolt is in kind of poor shape, but otherwise great protection.

Location

Take the trail until it hits the cliff. Move left about 40'. The beginning of the route can be identified by a left-facing lieback corner that turns into a traversing finger crack.

Protection

Nuts + doubles TCUs to #3. Lots of slings for the first pitch.
Max Shaffer
  5.11a/b
Max Shaffer  
  5.11a/b
Compared to Yosemite routes like Serenity and Sons or The Rostrum, I thought the grades were right on, but found them fairly stiff as compared to The Grand Wall or Exasperator in Squamish. In any case, this is a fantastic route and not to be missed. The gear is great and the falls are clean. Get on it! Sep 3, 2017
Alexander K
The road
5.10c
Alexander K   The road
5.10c
The flake right before the 3rd pitch crux flexes substantially. I doubt it will significantly alter the route once its gone, but its only a matter of time... Jun 29, 2017
Jessica T
seattle, wa
  5.10+
Jessica T   seattle, wa
  5.10+
If you have a tagline, easy 2 double length raps to ground. We improved webbing on 2nd rap. I thought first pitch was honest 10d lead when compared to other 10ds. Sep 13, 2015
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
  5.10d
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
  5.10d
Excellent route. We took the advice above and extended the 2nd pitch to the base of the corner with a gear belay. That was definitely the way to go, and you don't use any of the gear in the belay that you will need for the 3rd pitch.

I was pleasantly surprised to find at least three gear placements available after the bolt which took the edge off of the thin moves near the top. We didn't have TCU's but small Aliens and a nut did the trick. Also, since we had one with us, I plugged the #4 lower down in the only wide spot on the pitch and was happy for it, though you could easily find other placements nearby with smaller gear if you didn't bring the big piece.

I haven't led the 4th pitch but as a 5'1" climber I found that following it wasn't as bad as I expected. The moves to the good holds are reachy, for sure, but there is a so-so intermediate finger pull that is just enough to let us shorties rock up onto the flake so we can grab the more positive flake just above it. Jun 28, 2015
Hans
Squamish, BC
  5.10d
Hans   Squamish, BC
  5.10d
There are bolted anchors every 35m or so as John says, but they aren't set up for rappels. We left some tat on the last two and made it down, but keep this in mind. Walking off would be a lot faster.

Great climb BTW. First pitch is definitely harder than the rest, which have only short cruxes. Jun 1, 2015
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10
Very good climb- I thought the first pitch was easier than Exasperator by quite a bit- shorter crux, jug to jug with one small finger lock to deal with. The feet are a little harder to spot, but all in all, I found it to be about the same as the rest of the 5.10 on the route- that is, classic and very enjoyable.

For the second pitch, I traversed past the bolts and then climbed the first part of the corner to a decent stance and bomber hand sized gear. This let me see the meat of the .10c section above and kind of keeps the grade consistent pitch to pitch.

The last pitch is cool- but nothing super hard. Just gotta burl for a minute.

Two super long rappels or four short ones with a single 70m will drop you back to the base very quickly from the final rap station. Jul 24, 2013
AJV
 
AJV  
 
Definitely one of the best routes in Squamish. Even the 5.8 is fun.

As mentioned by most, go about 15 metres past the bolted anchors on P2 and belay at the base of the next pitch. Comfy belay stance and bomber hand-sized gear for the anchor. You won't need much in the hand sizes on P3. Jul 21, 2013
On P3, it was nice to have a small TCU to place after climbing above the crux bolt. There is a little move in there before it's over as EF notes.

P1 is technically straightforward but feels continuous if you are not fresh. Aug 29, 2012
Fantastic route!

The first pitch felt like Exasperator with sketchier fingers, so by that standard it seems like 5.10d to me.

We accidentally extended P2 a little farther than suggested in Select, to above the steeper layback part, I guess the pitch was probably 5.8 then. I liked the belay stance just fine.

The third pitch is a lot harder than I expected! I figured I was done when I reached the deep pocket 10 feet above the bolt. I was wrong. Don't drop your guard early.

Pitch four has a short overhanging crux and then is super enjoyable cruising. Aug 13, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Climbed it again. First pitch felt harder this time :)

The final pitch might be hard for a shorter person. My wife had a heck of a time. Aug 5, 2011
Mike Teschke
North Vancouver
 
Mike Teschke   North Vancouver
 
Fantastic climb from the start to the finish. The first pitch definitely seemed about a letter grade harder than either of the last two pitches. If I climb it again I would extend the second short pitch as Andy recommends in his route description. Sep 28, 2009
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
  5.10d
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
  5.10d
Classic climb! Three high-quality pitches in the 10c/d range (plus a short easier pitch), each with a completely different character. I don't usually disagree with many of the one-letter downgrades in Squamish, but for this one I feel that 10d is appropriate. Aug 4, 2009