The Apron Rock Climbing

Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. Existing closures will remain in effect through the winter, as changing temperatures and weather events may trigger more debris to fall in areas where rock falls have occurred recently.


NORTH WALL CLOSURE
A new rock fall occurred Sept. 20th on the Zodiac Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: all routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Angels Crest on the Lower Zodiac Wall.

Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…



DARK SIDE BOULDERING CLOSURE
The debris field from the Sept. 20th rock fall reached the Dark Side bouldering area, and this area is now closed.




GRAND WALL CLOSURE
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack) and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.

Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…



GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
All Bouldering areas between but not including Cacademon Boulder and Titanic North have also been closed. This area includes: Gilligan’s Island, Mantel Madness, Undertow, Lipsmack, Superfly, Octagon, Black Dyke, Viper, Thighmaster, and Survivor.

Boudlering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…



WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…



SLHANAY CLOSURE
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.

Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.


DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

The flake on the last pitch of Banana Peel started to crack sometime before August 24th, 2022 and is now completely detached. This flake currently supports a big triangular block and both represent big danger if they come off.

These are Kris Wild's comments after doing a preliminary inspection of the area and highlighting the new crack/flake with some chalk:

"We need to recommend that no one get on the top two pitches of Banana Peel. It would be very hard for a 5.7 climber to not touch this thing safely at all while climbing the pitch.

The big triangular block sitting on top of it is definitely suspended by this flake, and would slide on its own if the flake broke free."

Kris put up a temporary sign in the parking lot, but clearly more signage is needed.

Preliminary recommendations by Anders Ourom:

1. Don't go anywhere near the last pitch of Banana Peel. If you do, don't touch anything. (Better yet, don't climb anything from Diedre to Slab Alley, or if you really must, get the hell off the first pitches as soon as you can.)
2. If you insist on climbing Banana Peel anyway, avoid the last two pitches and branch off to the last two pitches of Sparrow or Slab Alley instead. Both somewhat harder.
3. Be very aware that if the flake and block fall, the rocks, and debris from secondary falls, could end up anywhere on the Apron to the right of Diedre. The Apron is cone-shaped, and the geometry and angle is such that rocks could go anywhere there. Lower pitches seem more threatened.

Granitic rock weighs 2,600 - 2,800 kilos/cubic metres, and I'd guess that the volume there is several cubic metres.