Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1975: Eric Weinstein and Dave Nicol for the route as described, original FA by Jim Sinclair and Jim Baldwin in 1960
Page Views: 36,033 total · 231/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Mar 17, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

388 Opinions

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This is a probably a Squamish top-ten short route on most people's lists.

Its two pitches are themselves reasonably short, but it's often done as a single long pitch (probably not possible with a 50m rope, but 60 is fine). You can rap twice or bring a second rope and do one long rappel.

The crux comes shortly after the first belay station and requires careful smearing while reaching between small but good finger locks.


This is the first distinct crack right of the Peasant's Route dihedral, which is right of the Apron Strings dihedral system. It looks short from below, but don't be fooled.


Excellent the entire way. Primarily small nuts and small cams up to tight hands. Take lots of them, especially the nuts, and especially if you're going to link the two pitches. You probably won't need a hand-sized piece until the final fifteen feet, by which time the difficulty has eased somewhat.
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Great climbing. I did it on a *hot* day and nearly melted... which made the crux off the belay challenging. Small, solid finger locks on slippery feet is the name of the game here. Mar 18, 2006
Mike fenice
Boulder, CO
Mike fenice   Boulder, CO
For me it was one of the most memorable climbs in the area. I pink pointed this route with a dislocated toe and with one foot in a tennis shoe while the other was in a climbing shoe. Talk about slippery! Solid finger locks will get you to the top. May 9, 2006
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
Get on this thing! Take 3 purple camalots (or equivalent), and lots of stoppers and finger sized stuff. nothing bigger than a #1 camalot.

Do it in one pitch- set a bomber piece after the first belay and fire through the crux.

Outstanding, one of the best 5.10 pitches i've done- this thing is like a friendly Serenity Crack!

Edit: If you have an 80m line, you can definitely lower off this route from the second anchor (the 70m was very close). You probably can't TR the line, though, as the bend in the crack eats up enough rope that I'm not sure an 80m would make it (I think the crack itself is about 42m long). Jun 27, 2007
Doug D
Park City, UT
Doug D   Park City, UT
Great route. If you are not up to 10c do the first pitch at least. It is awesome. The second pitch is great as well. Highly recommend doing it in one. Sep 20, 2007
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
Spectacular Route! If it's warm get on it in the shade. Mar 2, 2008
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
Magnificent route. The crack eats medium sized nuts and is enjoyable throughout. We walked up to it in the evening as the sun was setting on it and enjoyed perfect temps after a hot day. May 26, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The bottom pitch can be a little wet. Small fingers like mine combined with a little moisture make the two pitches feel about the same in grade.
Run the two together for 1 very high quality 45+ meter pitch. Jun 30, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Rad climb. Did it one pitch. The crux is good fun... poor finger lock, good finger lock, repeat for 30 feet. Fiddling gear in through the crux portion definitely requires energy. Aug 15, 2008
Portland, OR
orclimber   Portland, OR
Local beta says stay high at the crux on P2. use the crack for your feet, and use face holds above for hands. Jan 31, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
orclimber wrote:local beta says stay high at the crux on P2. use the crack for your feet, and use face holds above for hands.
Ha, that's funny. Jan 31, 2009
Sarah Kate
Seattle, WA
Sarah Kate   Seattle, WA
Gear: Worth saving a very large nut or #1 camalot for the last 10 feet. Exquisite, especially for tiny hands: perfect finger-locks and ring-locks the entire well!!! Sep 5, 2009
Jason Holliday
Blacksburg, VA
Jason Holliday   Blacksburg, VA
orclimber wrote:
local beta says stay high at the crux on P2. use the crack for your feet, and use face holds above for hands.

I've never seen anyone do it this way, and I've done this climb several times and spent lots of time at the base of the Chief on neighboring routes. It would be quite a feat and wildly insecure. I don't know how you'd protect it or get back into the crack unless you walked it all the way to the point where it turns back left. The crux is really only two moves before you get bomber finger locks (still no feet, but it'd be hard to fall out of the locks unless you just pumped out). Jul 19, 2010
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
Definitly do it in one pitch, it's so fun, there's no reason to stop midway! Great route, really enjoyed this one. Jul 27, 2010
Scott W
Flagstaff, AZ
Scott W   Flagstaff, AZ
Does it get anymore classic? Seriously, flawless climb. Jun 24, 2011
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
agreed that this is an absolutely amazing route. a classic of classics. maybe the best granite finger crack I've ever climbed! works pretty well to climb the whole thing with a 70. then you can just do the two raps back to the ground. might want a couple of green aliens for the right slanting carck on p2. didn't see any need to sue the mentioned "local beta" Jul 29, 2011
Phill T
Phill T  
beyond stellar! Save a red c4 for the final left angling section. You can get up high on it and surprisingly easily layback the final section to the chains. Aug 16, 2012
Matt Hoffmann
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
Considered by many to be the best 5.10 in Squamish.

Stellar route, great pro, fun movement. Just go do it. Sep 26, 2012
T Rundle
T Rundle   Belltown
My first Squamish route back in 1995 and it was an amazing introduction to the area. I try to squeeze it in before cruel shoes to bellygood each time. Jan 18, 2013
john dyck
john dyck  
A fantastic climb.With a 60m rope linked both pitches without clipping the anchor on p1. An onsight...barely Feb 20, 2014
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
The best 5.10 anywhere. Jul 3, 2014
KayJ   Oregon
Pitch one was my first 10.A trad lead. Amazing route, easy to place gear, even for a newer leader. Just an unbelievable finger crack and locks with good foot holds to rest between some placements. We did it in two pitches so I could follow the 10.c section, which was also amazing, but a harder crux. So good, we climbed it twice! Aug 31, 2015
B. Smith
Denver, CO
B. Smith   Denver, CO
This is one of the best climbs I did all summer! I linked the pitches and loved every move!

We used a double rope and I retied it through our anchor to set up a top rope. So much Fun! Feb 18, 2016
James Enright
Burlington, ON
James Enright   Burlington, ON
Definitely top 10 finger crack in Sqamish! The crack is so sustained and splitter! Eats nuts on the upper section.
Would recommend doing it all in one pitch for the experience! Jul 3, 2018