Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: 1975: Eric Weinstein and Dave Nicol for the route as described, original FA by Jim Sinclair and Jim Baldwin in 1960
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Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Mar 17, 2006
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is a probably a Squamish top-ten short route on most people's lists.

Its two pitches are themselves reasonably short, but it's often done as a single long pitch (probably not possible with a 50m rope, but 60 is fine). You can rap twice or bring a second rope and do one long rappel.

The crux comes shortly after the first belay station and requires careful smearing while reaching between small but good finger locks.

Location Suggest change

This is the first distinct crack right of the Peasant's Route dihedral, which is right of the Apron Strings dihedral system. It looks short from below, but don't be fooled.

Protection Suggest change

Excellent the entire way. Primarily small nuts and small cams up to tight hands. Take lots of them, especially the nuts, and especially if you're going to link the two pitches. You probably won't need a hand-sized piece until the final fifteen feet, by which time the difficulty has eased somewhat.