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Routes in Grand Wall Base Area

Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flex Capacitor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jingus the Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 420 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Les MacDonald, Jim Baldwin
Page Views: 3,315 total, 25/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 31, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

An awesome left facing corner is where you begin. The first pitch is slick and ends at a ledge. Pitch 2 has the crux 10c layback. After that 4 shorter pitches get you to the end of the route, where you can rap with 1 60m rope.

Location

Nice corner about 100' left of Exasperator.

Protection

cams/slings

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
I found that history in the early 90's McLane book, I would guess the gullies would be done first, with the S. gully having some real climbing (done in 1957), don't know about the Ngully (done in Feb. 58, maybe with snow?). I think the Peasants was a attempt by Baldwin in reaching the Split Pillar? Aug 7, 2014
Dru
Dru  
geoff, this was not the first route in Squamish. North and South Gullies were the first two routes on the Chief (Feb. and April 58, a couple months in advance of Peasants) Aug 7, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
I thought it worth mentioning that this was the very first technical route climbed in Squamish in May of 1958. The 1st free ascent was by Peter Croft and John Howe, Feb. 1979. Feb 7, 2014
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10c
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10c
Enjoyable route. Fairly straightforward climbing except pitch 2. The crux feels a lot easier if you can manage to reach the bolt before pulling it. Top stays wet quite a while but, is straightforward.

Linked pitch 3, 4 then 5, 6. Sep 26, 2012
KrisW
 
KrisW  
 
You can rap with one 60m rope using all belays except the 4th. The rap of the 2nd pitch is a full 30m, so be careful.

The route can be done as three long pitches with careful use of slings.

You can also continue into it from the top of the second pitch of Exasperator. Sep 23, 2012
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c
Repeated the route, and just as fun as I remember. DMM offset nuts + HB offsets made easy work of protecting P2. I vaguely remember normal nuts being a bit fiddly. A green c3 goes in perfectly right at the crux. Aug 5, 2010
slim

  5.10c
slim    
  5.10c
i think you mean right facing on pitches 5 and 6. fun route. crux pitch felt about a number grade harder than exasperator. Aug 6, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c
Another great climb on the Grand Wall base. This area is stacked!

The first two pitches are the best, but the remainder of the route is worth doing once. All anchors are bolted.

P1) 5.10a - strenuous layback moves off the ground lead to easier climbing. This pitch can be wet.
P2) 5.10c - a long, thin technical corner. It gets progressively harder all the way, with the final 20 feet being the crux. Small nuts and/or very small TCUs needed at the crux.
P3) 5.10a - A short pitch. Climb the corner with one hard move and then two bolts to the anchor.
P4) 5.5 - Climb 30 feet up the corner to the right, clip a bolt, and then downclimb to the anchor
P5) 5.8 - Climb the right facing corner. Two options above. Go right for a big 'ol wide flake, or go left for easier climbing. We opted to go left. Make a short traverse to gain another crack which leads to the below
P6) 5.10b - Climb the right facing corner until it is possible to pull out of the corner onto the face to the left via a fun, bouldery move. A bolt protects this move, but you need to climb a little higher in the corner to clip it. More face climbing up flakes leads to the final anchor.

Rap the route with one rope.

Gear: Nuts including small ones, double set of cams from small TCUs to #1 camalot, one #2 camalot, one #3 camalot Aug 22, 2007