All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Grand Wall Base Area

Ghostdancing

Name: Ghostdancing
Rating: 3.1

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Grand Wall Base Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cruel Shoes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Flex Capacitor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Friendly Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Jingus the Cat T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Spectre, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Sunday Whites S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Teenage Wasteland T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches
GPS:	49.6827, -123.1482
FA:	Peter Shackleton, Robin Barley
Page Views:	2,478 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Shelton Hatfield on Jul 22, 2013
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

In my opinion somewhat of a forgotten classic. The first two pitches of climbing tackle many varied cruxes. Your prize for questing up the delightful flakes and slabs of the lower pitches is the mellower but super classic third pitch corner.

P1) Start off of the large pancake flake leaning against the wall. Climb up, clip a bolt, and then pull the route's first crux, a burly and perplexing slab overlap. After clipping more bolts traverse right to a large layback flake. Ascend this flake placing gear until you reach a bolt, and pull some hard face/arete moves. Easier climbing leads to a bolted belay. 5.11b

P2) Easy but interesting slab moves lead to a bolt and a good stance before the route's technical crux, a thin techy slab problem. Pull the crux and then traverse up and left into a corner on easy but runout terrain. The bolt protected corner provides interesting arete/corner moves. Bolted anchor. 5.11c

P3) Ascend the beautiful right-facing layback corner, eventually exiting left up a system of cracks. Bolted belay. 5.10c

Three double rope raps down the route will reach the ground.