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Merci Me
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 2.8 from 91
votes
Routes in Grand Wall Base Area
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Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flex Capacitor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Friendly Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jingus the Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 190 ft (58 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | P1: Jim Sinclair, Dave Harris, (Eric Lance, Alex Bertulis) Sept. 1967. P2: Dean Hart, Jim Sinclair July 1969 |
| Page Views: | 7,738 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Aug 26, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED JULY 28th 2021
Details
Rockfall Hazard Closures
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. These closures will be updates as more assessments are completed.
Grand Wall Closure Area
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack), the Undertow bouldering area and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Bouldering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Western Dihedrals Closure Area
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Closure map to be posted shortly.
Slhanay Closure Area
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. These closures will be updates as more assessments are completed.
Grand Wall Closure Area
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack), the Undertow bouldering area and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Bouldering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Western Dihedrals Closure Area
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Closure map to be posted shortly.
Slhanay Closure Area
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Access Issue: Camping and COVID-19 - Guidelines
Details
Please go to the Squamish Access Society website for up-to-date access information. Also join their Facebook page, or follow them on Instagram, and please consider joining or donating to support the climbing you love in Squamish.
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
CAMPING
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
CAMPING
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Merci Me is a fun face route that continues for two more pitches where Apron Strings ends. It's pretty runout (there are only eight bolts total for both pitches combined) but the climbing isn't that hard and most leaders that can climb Apron Strings should be fine.
Location
Merci Me starts where Apron Strings ends. Two double rope rappels down the same route or using the anchor at the top of pitch one for Grey Matter will get you to the Flake Trail (I think one 70m rope might work but I'm not 100% on that, find out first!) From here you can scramble down the Flake Trail or do one more 60m rappel down Sense of Urgency to the ground.
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