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Routes in Grand Wall Base Area

Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flex Capacitor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jingus the Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Scott Young, Jacquie Beaubien 1986
Page Views: 3,115 total, 41/month
Shared By: claytown on Aug 18, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

A full on, classic-quality, right angling off fingers to thin fingers dihedral past a ledge. Lieback you way up this low angle beauty then make some face moves left to the anchor after clipping the bolt on the face. Don't go too high at the bolt or youhave to reverse it and start the traverse all over again. The book calls this pitch 10b.

Worth noting that more bolts continue above the anchor. I think this continues into Never Never Land (7p 12a).

Location

Left of Seasoned in the Sun, where the main path curves left and away from the wall into the wood, stay on a faint trail right at the base of the wall and keep going uphill. You will know when you see it. Splitter off fingers on a low angle slab looking right at you. All in all just a few hunder meters uphill from Seasoned.

Protection

Doubles of green alien (blue tcu) to .75 camalot. Single #1 and #2 camalot. You could get by with just one green alien too. Like lots of Squamish, you could use 3 or 4 in the off fingers size. I usually roll with doubles of both grey and red alien. Bolt at the top. Two bolt anchor.

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10
thanks Mark, I wondered if it was you after the machete comment. We wandered up there last year and did not get on it, got on it now and well did not send, that top out is a burly surprise after all that lay-back. If quagmire, squam butt, grub street, peasants, cresent, maƱana, east bulletheads are 10c then this is too, otherwise they are all 10b too. Jun 7, 2016
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10
Decided to put my money where my mouth is and take care of the state of this route. We made it a spring project to clear out all the soil in the dirtaneering start that sustained the dastardly prickle bushes.

Before:


After:


This adds about 15-20 feet of low-5th climbing to the route, but you can plug some gear if you're squeamish. We also cut a more clear trail, added some chain anchors, scrubbed the lichen from the feet and the vegetable matter from the crack. It's good to go, get on it! May 14, 2016
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10
It's getting pretty overgrown up here, or was a few months ago. It was so unpleasant that we didn't end up even climbing this rig, the mud caked on my shoes by the time I started laybacking was prohibitive. Leave your machete, bring a shovel.

On an unrelated note, last year a piece of rock pulled off near the crux. Apparently hasn't affected the difficulty much, but makes clipping the bolt harder. squamishclimbing.com/squami… Sep 3, 2013
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10
This route is awesome. Needs some chains up top for rapping though, I left a biner up there to back up the tat on the hangers.

A green C3 or equivalent was nice for the crux, but not essential.

Harder than Arrowroot or SITS, significantly so in my opinion. Great position though, and great climbing.

If you're into public service you could hump a machete up there with you for many reasons. It also would double as cougar defence, so... Sep 16, 2012