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> Squamish
> Stawamus Chief
> Grand Wall Base Area
Jingus the Cat
5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.4 from 49
votes
Routes in Grand Wall Base Area
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Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cruel Shoes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flex Capacitor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Friendly Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jingus the Cat T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunday Whites S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Teenage Wasteland T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 49.6827, -123.1482 |
| FA: | Scott Young, Jacquie Beaubien 1986 |
| Page Views: | 6,784 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | claytown on Aug 18, 2011 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A full on, classic-quality, right angling off fingers to thin fingers dihedral past a ledge. Lieback you way up this low angle beauty then make some face moves left to the anchor after clipping the bolt on the face. Don't go too high at the bolt or youhave to reverse it and start the traverse all over again. The book calls this pitch 10b.
Worth noting that more bolts continue above the anchor. I think this continues into Never Never Land (7p 12a).
Location
Left of Seasoned in the Sun, where the main path curves left and away from the wall into the wood, stay on a faint trail right at the base of the wall and keep going uphill. You will know when you see it. Splitter off fingers on a low angle slab looking right at you. All in all just a few hunder meters uphill from Seasoned.
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