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Routes in Grand Wall Base Area

Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flex Capacitor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jingus the Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,386 total, 77/month
Shared By: Alpine Carl on Nov 12, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

The crux is definitely the first pitch - very sustained laybacking with delicate smearing. The higher you climb, the thinner it gets. Not super technical but sustained and pumpy.

The second pitch starts with thin laybacking, but after pulling around an a little roof/corner feature, you'll zig-zag up an easy (5.5 or so) off-width crack before finishing on another sweet ledge (and the first pitch of Mercy Me).

Protection

Gear (and rock) are impeccable.
Pitch One: One fixed piece about 20 feet up the first pitch. Bolted belays; bring two ropes for the rap.

Medium rack, a few small TCU's, and at least two 3.5 to 4 inch pieces for the wide stuff up top.
Definitely don't watch the above video before the onsight attempt! I did, and while I tried to onsight it, kept having flashes of the consequence. Needless to say I dropped my first piece ever as a result!
It is a Yellow Master Cam so if you see it at the base, hit me up! I couldn't find it. That video is stressful. Jul 19, 2017
Sirius
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
If like me you're, uh, impressionable, don't watch this video before your onsite go!

youtube.com/watch?v=WHtL4Gz…

But maybe watch it after. Sep 10, 2016
Ed kelly
  5.10b/c
Ed kelly  
  5.10b/c
This is a beautiful climb, probably the hardest 10b I've done in Squamish. The gear is good, but as mentioned very strenuous to place and clip. Overall I found it quite a bit harder than exasperator.

While I would agree that this is a great way to start the grand wall, if you have any doubts about your ability and stamina I would recommend skipping apron strings and using the flake ledge. I found myself regretting the early morning pump while taking multiple whippers going for the chains on the sword pitch of the grand. But if you're strong go for it. Both pitches are beautiful and it adds to the quality of the day to go from the ground up. Jun 28, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
FA: Tim Auger, Mike Wisnicki, 1964. FFA: Hugh Burton, Steve Sutton, 1973
Agreed with above, very hard pumpy route, harder for me then Mercy St. or Exasperator. The crux moves are not to bad for me, hard to get gear in- green Alien in pod over the top at end of laybacks. It would be nice to have several .75 for lower part, 3) .5 for main section to plug in quick. ( Camalot) Feb 12, 2015
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Excellent route. P1 goes from #2 camalot down to purple master cam. Save some #0.5 camalots for the middle portion. I was surprised to discover a nice stem below the crux - didn't find it last time! Aug 4, 2011
Chris A  
I think the gear might have pulled because of having to place while laybacking. If your pumped it would be easy to start moving past your gear without really taking a good look at it. However, the gear is bomber if you take the time to look closely at each placement. Aug 1, 2008
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
Interesting that the gear pulled. As the route description and other comments say, the gear is good, if pumpy to place. Then again, when pumped the fact that good gear can be had doesn't mean that it is. May 16, 2008
I was at the belay on Exasperator taking pics of a leader on teh same climb. Heard a yell and looked over to see a guy take a forty or fifty footer at the cruz on this one. Slid most of the way down and ended up head down. Cool customer tho, he took stock and headed right back up and fired the crux. I talked to him later and turns out he pulled three pieces in the fall. May 15, 2008
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
really good climb- i'd agree with Andy, probably the hardest .10b we did while we were there.

definitely use this climb to start up the Grand- a spectacular (although pumpy!) start to a beautiful climb.... Dec 16, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Hard for Squamish 10b. The crux is suprisingly thin and usually executed on pumped arms. We spent a few days climbing around the Grand Wall base, and I witnessed many falls/hangs at the crux... definitely a bit of a squamish sandbag. The gear is pretty much small nuts right at the crux, further deepening the pump. The 2nd pitch is easier, but still great fun - a technical thin corner leads to a low angled, wide splitter.

Gear - nuts including small ones, double set of cams from TCUs to #3 camalot. Aug 22, 2007