Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Campbell, Bob Millward, 1984
Page Views: 119 total · 40/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Mar 21, 2019
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

A good long forgotten route. The first pitch was cleaned up for Flex Capacitor, the second pitch needs a makeover.
The first pitch is a sustained 5.9 fingers layback that seems to always surprise the unsuspecting leaders I see get on it.
When you reach the bolted anchor you traverse left ( north ) around trees and from a ledge around the corner go up a right facing corner.
There are loose holds, lots of moss and lichen and some fun climbing.
I found this pitch to be more relaxed with a few moves of 5.9.

Hangup is a 5.9 variation that starts up the first pitch. About 3/4 the way up there is a groove leading left where the other two routes continue with the steep layback on the right and up to the bolted anchor. Hangup traverses about 10 meters up and left, and then down about 8 meters crossing Moving to Montana. It meets up with Peasants route.

Location

same start as Flex Capacitor, up the hill going south along the base from Exasperator. The north side right facing corner of a large slab.

Protection

Standard rack up to #3 with plenty of finger size cams for 1st pitch.
1st anchor is a good bolted anchor.
2nd pitch anchor does not really exist, it was a very faded series of slings knotted behind a flake with a nut that was very poorly placed. There are some trees near this that would be better if you brought sling material . If someone wants to add a bolted anchor that would be awesome.

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