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> Grand Wall Base Area
Friendly Lizard
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Grand Wall Base Area
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Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flex Capacitor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Friendly Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jingus the Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jim Campbell, Bob Millward, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 487 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | geoff georges on Mar 21, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: COVID-19 - Guidelines
Details
ACCESS ISSUE: COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. Check Area Closures.
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
Description
A good long forgotten route. The first pitch was cleaned up for Flex Capacitor, the second pitch needs a makeover.
The first pitch is a sustained 5.9 fingers layback that seems to always surprise the unsuspecting leaders I see get on it.
When you reach the bolted anchor you traverse left ( north ) around trees and from a ledge around the corner go up a right facing corner.
There are loose holds, lots of moss and lichen and some fun climbing.
I found this pitch to be more relaxed with a few moves of 5.9.
Hangup is a 5.9 variation that starts up the first pitch. About 3/4 the way up there is a groove leading left where the other two routes continue with the steep layback on the right and up to the bolted anchor. Hangup traverses about 10 meters up and left, and then down about 8 meters crossing Moving to Montana. It meets up with Peasants route.
The first pitch is a sustained 5.9 fingers layback that seems to always surprise the unsuspecting leaders I see get on it.
When you reach the bolted anchor you traverse left ( north ) around trees and from a ledge around the corner go up a right facing corner.
There are loose holds, lots of moss and lichen and some fun climbing.
I found this pitch to be more relaxed with a few moves of 5.9.
Hangup is a 5.9 variation that starts up the first pitch. About 3/4 the way up there is a groove leading left where the other two routes continue with the steep layback on the right and up to the bolted anchor. Hangup traverses about 10 meters up and left, and then down about 8 meters crossing Moving to Montana. It meets up with Peasants route.
Location
same start as Flex Capacitor, up the hill going south along the base from Exasperator. The north side right facing corner of a large slab.
Protection
Standard rack up to #3 with plenty of finger size cams for 1st pitch.
1st anchor is a good bolted anchor.
2nd pitch anchor does not really exist, it was a very faded series of slings knotted behind a flake with a nut that was very poorly placed. There are some trees near this that would be better if you brought sling material . If someone wants to add a bolted anchor that would be awesome.
1st anchor is a good bolted anchor.
2nd pitch anchor does not really exist, it was a very faded series of slings knotted behind a flake with a nut that was very poorly placed. There are some trees near this that would be better if you brought sling material . If someone wants to add a bolted anchor that would be awesome.
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