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Friendly Lizard
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Grand Wall Base Area
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Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cruel Shoes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flex Capacitor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Friendly Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jingus the Cat T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunday Whites S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Teenage Wasteland T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.6827, -123.1482 |
| FA: | Jim Campbell, Bob Millward, 1984 |
| Page Views: | 1,187 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Mar 21, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A good long forgotten route. The first pitch was cleaned up for Flex Capacitor, the second pitch needs a makeover.
The first pitch is a sustained 5.9 fingers layback that seems to always surprise the unsuspecting leaders I see get on it.
When you reach the bolted anchor you traverse left ( north ) around trees and from a ledge around the corner go up a right facing corner.
There are loose holds, lots of moss and lichen and some fun climbing.
I found this pitch to be more relaxed with a few moves of 5.9.
Hangup is a 5.9 variation that starts up the first pitch. About 3/4 the way up there is a groove leading left where the other two routes continue with the steep layback on the right and up to the bolted anchor. Hangup traverses about 10 meters up and left, and then down about 8 meters crossing Moving to Montana. It meets up with Peasants route.
Location
same start as Flex Capacitor, up the hill going south along the base from Exasperator. The north side right facing corner of a large slab.
Protection
Standard rack up to #3 with plenty of finger size cams for 1st pitch.
1st anchor is a good bolted anchor.
2nd pitch anchor does not really exist, it was a very faded series of slings knotted behind a flake with a nut that was very poorly placed. There are some trees near this that would be better if you brought sling material . If someone wants to add a bolted anchor that would be awesome.
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