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Routes in Grand Wall Base Area

Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flex Capacitor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jingus the Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Ourom, Lane 1977
Page Views: 10,055 total, 79/month
Shared By: Alpine Carl on Jun 18, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

Seasoned in the Sun is would make a great warm up for a day of 5.10 climbing at the Chief, and in some ways is more enjoyable than Exasperator: no finger buckets/pinscars, bouldery crux at bottom and super-sustained hands at top, all in a cool, rarely visited part of the Grand Wall "base" area. Highly, highly recommended.

Location

From the base of the Grand Wall, where Apron Strings, Exasperator, and Peasant's Route all start, hike left along the base of the cliff (the Flake Escape start to the Grand is over here, too). It's always farther than I remember, but keep going: you can't miss the beautiful splitter going straight up from the trail, which peters out pretty quick after that.

Protection

TCUs, cams to 2.5 inches or so, set of nuts.
Fixed anchors at the top with rap rings, and you can TR and rap with a 60, but it will be close, so knot the ends of your rope!
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
This climb is incredible. The awkward bouldery stuff is great and the hand crack is even better. It is deceivingly longer that it looks from the ground I agree, 3 .75's were very helpful for a baby like me that didn't want to run it out. Oh, and I finally got to slot some brass at the bottom, ya brah. Jul 3, 2014
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b
hands down one of the best 5.10s i've done anywhere- and certainly one of the top 5 in Squamish. Go and do it. You'll be glad you did. Jul 21, 2013
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10b
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10b
Stellar route and worth the extra walk. The hands sections are just fun, the tighter sections definitely throw a bit of spice into this one. The gear is great the whole way. Apr 23, 2012
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Definitely longer than it looks from the ground but great route. The off-fingers was the crux in my opinion too but not too many moves of them. Mar 2, 2008
JSH

JSH    
I found the bottom "crux" to be relatively easy, but the off-fingers/rings section (0.5 camalots) above the pod put me into quite a ... state (but perhaps I shouldn't have warmed up at my limit, and in my defense it did start to rain just then). It's a nice, varied-size crack. As the previous comment said, similar to Klahanie Crack, it's longer than it looks from the ground, but eats nuts for breakfast! Sep 2, 2007
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
 
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
 
Definitely highly recommended. As with many of the Squamish cracks that are less than vertical it is easy to underestimate the length, difficulty and size of pro required for this climb. Take lots of finger and tight-hand sized pieces. Aug 7, 2007