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Moving to Montana
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British PG13
Avg: 3.4 from 7
votes
Routes in Grand Wall Base Area
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Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cruel Shoes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Flex Capacitor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Friendly Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jingus the Cat T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunday Whites S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Teenage Wasteland T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 49.6827, -123.1482 |
| FA: | Perry Beckham |
| Page Views: | 3,127 total · 26/month |
| Shared By: | Tim Bonnell on Aug 1, 2016 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
An engaging route with some excellent face/slab climbing. Moving to Montana is very similar in style and quality to Cruel Shoes, just a little harder and a bit more heady.
This climb has been retro-scrubbed and its rusty 1/4" bolts were replaced in an excellent gesture of public service.
p1 (11a): Originally graded 10d, I think this pitch should be bumped up as the recent cleaning removed a stump that provided a key rest/foothold. Some easy climbing gets you to a bolt, but the the next 15' are hard and a bit scary. You then get a great rest before a section of sustained tips laybacking/smearing.
p2 (10a): I've seen this pitch rated 5.9 and 10b but I think 10a is reasonable. From the belay climb some easy cracks to an overlap before boldly breaking out left onto the slab where a bolt will get you to the belay.
p3 (10c): Tricky face climbing past 2 bolts leads to a 'memorable mantle' that must be executed before you get the 3rd bolt. The runout is about 20' and the mantle move is probably about 5.8 or 9. Move left into a nice crack and under-cling it as it arches right past another couple of bolts. A long and excellent pitch.
p4 (11a): The Money. Step down from the belay and traverse right along an under-cling with good pro. Climb up on the hanging slab at the obvious opportunity and move up easily to clip a bolt. Weave a devious line up and down across the slab past 3 more bolts, sustained all the way to the anchor.
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