Avg: 3.7 from 60 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches|
|Page Views:||11,953 total · 67/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Feb 10, 2007|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. These closures will be updates as more assessments are completed.
Grand Wall Closure Area
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack), the Undertow bouldering area and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Bouldering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
Western Dihedrals Closure Area
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Closure map to be posted shortly.
Slhanay Closure Area
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
P1: Begin at the base of the Chief in the corner just right of Apron Strings. Ascend the corner (The Flake) via stemming and chimneying to a belay high up in the corner at a stance. 5.10b. Alternatively, climb the first pitch of Apron Strings (10b), a higher quality pitch up the face to the left of the corner to the same belay.
P2: Continue up the corner briefly before traversing right out onto the face and up a steep, bolted crux section. There is a long runout on this pitch on easy climbing. Continue on to a belay. 5.10d R.
P3: Traverse almost straight right for half a ropelength to the base of a right-facing, right-leaning corner system. The final moves around and into this corner are difficult for the grade (the key to keeping it 10b is to step down at the final bolt without being greedy and trying to clip it - once at the anchor reach back and clip it to protect your second), but the pitch is reasonably well-protected for both the leader and second. 5.10b.
P4: Ascend the sustained leaning corner to a point where one can exit out right and up to a belay at a stance. Sensibly linked into the next pitch. 5.10c.
P5: A committing move leads to a good ledge with a pin and bolt. From here continue up past a second bolt at 5.10+ (tough) and then left or from the first bolt head hard left and then up at 5.9. Both are somewhat run out in places. An excellent pitch. R.
P6: The final pitch climbs up and right via a very thin crescent-like corner. Eventually the route trends almost straight back left to the ledge at the base of the Split Pillar. This pitch is entirely bolted and well-protected. 5.10d (easier if you're tall).
Rap with two ropes or continue on.
Along with Fiddler on the Roof in Red Rocks, Nevada, Birds of Fire in Rocky Mountain National Park, and Stoner's Highway in Yosemite, Cruel Shoes rounds out a quartet of absolutely classic North American multipitch face climbs all checking in at around 5.10+.