All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Grand Wall Base Area

The Flake

Name: The Flake
Rating: 2.5

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Grand Wall Base Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Flex Capacitor T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Friendly Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Jingus the Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA:	Jim Baldwin, Ed Cooper, June, 1961. FFA: Dan Tate, 1968
Page Views:	3,174 total · 18/month
Shared By:	blakeherrington on Jul 30, 2008
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED SEPT 20th 2021 Details

Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes are currently closed until further notice. Existing closures will remain in effect through the winter, as changing temperatures and weather events may trigger more debris to fall in areas where rock falls have occurred recently.

NORTH WALL CLOSURE
A new rock fall occurred Sept. 20th on the Zodiac Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: all routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Angels Crest on the Lower Zodiac Wall.

Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…

DARK SIDE BOULDERING CLOSURE
The debris field from the Sept. 20th rock fall reached the Dark Side bouldering area, and this area is now closed.

GRAND WALL CLOSURE
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack) and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.

Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…

GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
All Bouldering areas between but not including Cacademon Boulder and Titanic North have also been closed. This area includes: Gilligan’s Island, Mantel Madness, Undertow, Lipsmack, Superfly, Octagon, Black Dyke, Viper, Thighmaster, and Survivor.

Boudlering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…

WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…

SLHANAY CLOSURE
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.

Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

Follow clean cracks and features up the interface between the clean slab of the lower Grand Wall, and the major flake/ledge features on the left. This is mostly comprised of a major right-facing corner/flake system and has a prominent chimney 1/3 of the way up.

This pitch is sustained and harder than it looks, involving physical climbing of many sorts (chimney, wide crack, laybacking).

The top of the pitch puts you at the base of P2 of Apron Strings (moving left) or P1 of Cruel Shoes (moving right).

Location

From the base of the Grand Wall, this climb is located left of the left-facing corner of The Peasants Route, and just right of the thin layback crack "Apron Strings".