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Routes in Grand Wall Base Area

Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flex Capacitor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jingus the Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Peter Croft, Randy Atkinson, Joe Buszowski
Page Views: 1,628 total, 31/month
Shared By: AJV on Aug 10, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

Thin crack with a low crux. The feet are surprisingly good and the finger jams are reasonable (and continually get better).

Location

Between teenage wasteland and commando crack. More broadly, between exasperator and flex capacitor.

Protection

Micro nuts at the bottom, RPs are nice. A few tiny cams. After the crack widens the climbing is quite easy, but having a .75,1 and 2 will be useful.

Photos

Brent Barghahn
SLC, UT
  5.11+ PG13
Brent Barghahn   SLC, UT
  5.11+ PG13
With the flake gone at the beginning, pulling off the ground is tricky and unprotected. The first bit above felt hard for the grade with sketchy RPs (at least onsight). Jul 1, 2017
KrisW
 
KrisW  
 
The route is now more solidly placed in its given grade. The flake at the bottom of the thin crack (visible in the photo) has pulled off making the opening moves a bit more engaging. May 14, 2016
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
I think the grade comes from doing the route onsight. Perhaps I'm bad at placing wires. I used nuts for the first 30 feet until it opened up to Red C3 size. Then two Yellow aliens, .5, .75, #1 camalot. Really eases up after you get to the first good fingerlock.

RP's seem to fit much better than offsets on this route. Aug 12, 2013
AJV
 
AJV  
 
This felt a bit soft, despite how thin it looks. It could be that it sees so little traffic that it has stayed very grippy, or it could be that the FA team decided to up the grade since the climbing is over RPs at the bottom. Aug 11, 2013