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Routes in Grand Wall Base Area

Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flex Capacitor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jingus the Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: P. Croft, R. Suddaby, T. Knight
Page Views: 6,476 total, 52/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Aug 13, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great climb among the great climbs along the base of the Chief. This ones starts easier than some, but it turns into a classic fingers and tight hands crack. At the little roof the crack becomes a lot more consistent and tougher, but the locks are great, considerably better than Seasoned in the Sun.

Location

This climb is at the far right side of the Chief Base, just about below the Dihedrals area. The area is fairly distinct for being in a pleasant hollow with only one other route nearby (Rutabega). This climb crosses the one-foot overlap at its apex.

Protection

This climb will take plenty of medium to large stoppers as well as doubles or triples of the finger and tight hand sized cams. The largest piece you could place would be a #1 camalot at the overlap, but there are many alternatives. There is one very old bolt near the top and then a good two bolt anchor with chains.

NOTE: with a 70m rope you can get down, but you have to be careful to take advantage of the base sloping up to the left and rope stretch. With anything shorter, you'll need to use two ropes to get down. Alternatively, the leader can top belay (on a very nice ledge) and the second can bring up the second rope.

If you're SUPER careful, you can rap with a single 60m rope if you land to the left, where the ground slopes upward. Use knots!
Ryan Lynne
  5.10b
Ryan Lynne  
  5.10b
Make sure to watch the rope on this one as it is around 33 meters. We used a 60 meter using a bit of trickery. It is much longer than it appears from the ground.

The crux is definitely just before and after the small roof where the crack thins which makes it hard to get a foot in the crack. It eventually opens up again and the difficulty eases as you approach the chains. Apr 18, 2016
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.10a/b
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.10a/b
Fun pitch. The only hard part is pretty short (finger crack) but, the pro is super solid. Just go for it. Sep 26, 2012
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10-
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10-
Rattly fingers! I was sorry I used my .5 and .4 to protect early on, use bigger gear for that section. The business starts as small as blue metolius and widens to .5 C4. Take doubles in that range, some nuts and singles up to a #2, though I placed a #3 mid-route when I clued in to save some finger-sized gear. Pumpy at the top!

Three rocks dropped while we were in the area, wear a helmet. Sep 9, 2012
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Absolutely Amazing! Such a great splitter fingers / off fingers line. We did the whole thing with a single 70m rope in one pitch. You just barely get back to the ground but it does make it with a couple of feet to spare. Jul 29, 2011
jaredvg
Bellingham, WA
 
jaredvg   Bellingham, WA
 
A new(er) set of chains 15 feet right of the crack at 15 to 20 meters up the wall allows escape from this climb with a single 60 meter rope in 2 rappels. To do this, belay from the top anchor, and both climbers will have to make 2 raps. A single 60 meter rope will not even come close to reaching the ground. Oct 13, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Good, but painful on the feet. Business is #0.5 to #1 camalots. Jul 30, 2009
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Fun, but too bad it's not all like the top 1/3rd. Jun 30, 2008
Dave E.
washington
Dave E.   washington
i thought this was harder than seasoned in the sun for sure, maybe it depends on hand size? Nov 16, 2007