Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: P. Croft, R. Suddaby, T. Knight
Page Views: 9,470 total · 60/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Aug 13, 2007
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great climb among the great climbs along the base of the Chief. This ones starts easier than some, but it turns into a classic fingers and tight hands crack. At the little roof the crack becomes a lot more consistent and tougher, but the locks are great, considerably better than Seasoned in the Sun.

Location

This climb is at the far right side of the Chief Base, just about below the Dihedrals area. The area is fairly distinct for being in a pleasant hollow with only one other route nearby (Rutabega). This climb crosses the one-foot overlap at its apex.

Protection

This climb will take plenty of medium to large stoppers as well as doubles or triples of the finger and tight hand sized cams. The largest piece you could place would be a #1 camalot at the overlap, but there are many alternatives. There is one very old bolt near the top and then a good two bolt anchor with chains.

NOTE: with a 70m rope you can get down, but you have to be careful to take advantage of the base sloping up to the left and rope stretch. With anything shorter, you'll need to use two ropes to get down. Alternatively, the leader can top belay (on a very nice ledge) and the second can bring up the second rope.

If you're SUPER careful, you can rap with a single 60m rope if you land to the left, where the ground slopes upward. Use knots!

Photos