Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: P. Croft, R. Suddaby, T. Knight
Page Views: 7,895 total · 56/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Aug 13, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

173 Opinions

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This is a great climb among the great climbs along the base of the Chief. This ones starts easier than some, but it turns into a classic fingers and tight hands crack. At the little roof the crack becomes a lot more consistent and tougher, but the locks are great, considerably better than Seasoned in the Sun.


This climb is at the far right side of the Chief Base, just about below the Dihedrals area. The area is fairly distinct for being in a pleasant hollow with only one other route nearby (Rutabega). This climb crosses the one-foot overlap at its apex.


This climb will take plenty of medium to large stoppers as well as doubles or triples of the finger and tight hand sized cams. The largest piece you could place would be a #1 camalot at the overlap, but there are many alternatives. There is one very old bolt near the top and then a good two bolt anchor with chains.

NOTE: with a 70m rope you can get down, but you have to be careful to take advantage of the base sloping up to the left and rope stretch. With anything shorter, you'll need to use two ropes to get down. Alternatively, the leader can top belay (on a very nice ledge) and the second can bring up the second rope.

If you're SUPER careful, you can rap with a single 60m rope if you land to the left, where the ground slopes upward. Use knots!


Dave E.
Dave E.   washington
i thought this was harder than seasoned in the sun for sure, maybe it depends on hand size? Nov 16, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Fun, but too bad it's not all like the top 1/3rd. Jun 30, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Good, but painful on the feet. Business is #0.5 to #1 camalots. Jul 30, 2009
Bellingham, WA
jaredvg   Bellingham, WA
A new(er) set of chains 15 feet right of the crack at 15 to 20 meters up the wall allows escape from this climb with a single 60 meter rope in 2 rappels. To do this, belay from the top anchor, and both climbers will have to make 2 raps. A single 60 meter rope will not even come close to reaching the ground. Oct 13, 2009
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Absolutely Amazing! Such a great splitter fingers / off fingers line. We did the whole thing with a single 70m rope in one pitch. You just barely get back to the ground but it does make it with a couple of feet to spare. Jul 29, 2011
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
Rattly fingers! I was sorry I used my .5 and .4 to protect early on, use bigger gear for that section. The business starts as small as blue metolius and widens to .5 C4. Take doubles in that range, some nuts and singles up to a #2, though I placed a #3 mid-route when I clued in to save some finger-sized gear. Pumpy at the top!

Three rocks dropped while we were in the area, wear a helmet. Sep 9, 2012
Matt Hoffmann
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
Fun pitch. The only hard part is pretty short (finger crack) but, the pro is super solid. Just go for it. Sep 26, 2012
Ryan Lynne
Ryan Lynne  
Make sure to watch the rope on this one as it is around 33 meters. We used a 60 meter using a bit of trickery. It is much longer than it appears from the ground.

The crux is definitely just before and after the small roof where the crack thins which makes it hard to get a foot in the crack. It eventually opens up again and the difficulty eases as you approach the chains. Apr 18, 2016
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, CA
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, CA
How the book gives this 3 stars is beyond me. I enjoyed the "punched by Thanos's gauntlet" bottom section as well as the great fingers and mini-roof at the top. Sep 9, 2018