All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Grand Wall Base Area

Arrowroot

Name: Arrowroot
Rating: 3.6

5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Grand Wall Base Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Cruel Shoes T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Flex Capacitor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Friendly Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Jingus the Cat T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Sunday Whites S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 115 ft (35 m)
GPS:	49.6827, -123.1482
FA:	P. Croft, R. Suddaby, T. Knight
Page Views:	12,184 total · 55/month
Shared By:	Peter Spindloe on Aug 13, 2007
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

This is a great climb among the great climbs along the base of the Chief. This ones starts easier than some, but it turns into a classic fingers and tight hands crack. At the little roof the crack becomes a lot more consistent and tougher, but the locks are great, considerably better than Seasoned in the Sun.

Location

This climb is at the far right side of the Chief Base, just about below the Dihedrals area. The area is fairly distinct for being in a pleasant hollow with only one other route nearby (Rutabega). This climb crosses the one-foot overlap at its apex.

Protection

This climb will take plenty of medium to large stoppers as well as doubles or triples of the finger and tight hand sized cams. The largest piece you could place would be a #1 camalot at the overlap, but there are many alternatives. There is one very old bolt near the top and then a good two bolt anchor with chains.

NOTE: with a 70m rope you can get down, but you have to be careful to take advantage of the base sloping up to the left and rope stretch. With anything shorter, you'll need to use two ropes to get down. Alternatively, the leader can top belay (on a very nice ledge) and the second can bring up the second rope.

If you're SUPER careful, you can rap with a single 60m rope if you land to the left, where the ground slopes upward. Use knots!