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Routes in Grand Wall Base Area

Aged in Oak T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Apron Strings T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Arrowroot T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Exasperator T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flake, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flex Capacitor T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ghostdancing T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jingus the Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knacker Cracker T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Merci Me S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Moving to Montana T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Peasant's Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rutabaga T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Seasoned in the Sun T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turnip T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jeremy Frimer, C. Mortenson, 2011
Page Views: 1,914 total · 26/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on Aug 11, 2012 with updates from Mark Roberts
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description

Fun new addition to the Grand Wall Base area.

P1 tackles a typical Squamish finger crack corner. The bottom was quite wet, even after a dry spell... but it was easy enough to pull through on a piece of gear to bypass the wet spot. End at a bolted anchor above the alcove.

P2 The business. Work into the arch and place your #4 in the first wide pod. Good feet keep appearing, and when they start to vanish the crack gets good in the corner. Good gear throughout. The crux is probably the last 15 feet, and the two bolts take the edge off.

Clip the anchor and have your partner lower you to the anchor 60' below (about the same height as your belayer)... much better stance there!

Topo available here: jeremyfrimer.com/uploads/2/…

Location

Head climber's right from the base of Exasperator up the short hill. At the top of the hill look for a right facing corner that leads to a beautiful arch. Can't miss it.

Protection

Double rack small nuts to #3 camalot plus one #4 camalot.

Photos

Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10
Great fun. I found the first pitch pumpy for the grade, but that's probably because my slab technique is abysmal. (There's no slab sections but the feet often rely on friction for both pitches.) P1 was wet after three days of dry. The locks during the wet section are bomber though, so just do it.

Second pitch tremendous fun, quite different in character from other 5.10 Grand Wall Base climbs I've done. Quite burly. Aug 14, 2012
AJV
 
AJV  
 
I also found the first pitch stiff. I'd probably call it 10a. The second pitch is awesome and protects extremely well. It is definitely worth bringing your #4, but you could get away without it if you're feeling bold. Aug 8, 2013
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
A great route, deserves more attention. It mostly feels like 10a to me, but sustained undercling laybacks . Aug 7, 2014
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10
Got on this again yesterday. The first pitch still felt insecure and engaging for the grade, but then I'm not really any better at slabby feet than I was the last time. Bomber protection though, and you're never too far from a fingerlock you could hang your body weight from.

The second pitch has some really amazing climbing: very positive holds, excellent protection and pleasant, continuous movement. Highly recommended if you're in the area and you've already climbed Exasperator. Sep 14, 2014

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