The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The
District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A
bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have
some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow
Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any
current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the
District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief:
Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north:
Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north:
Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Bend, OR
Boulder, CO
Park City, UT
Glenwood Springs, CO
Phoenix, AZ
Around Boulder, CO
Run the two together for 1 very high quality 45+ meter pitch. Jun 30, 2008
Bend, OR
Portland, OR
Bend, OR
Seattle, WA
Blacksburg, VA
local beta says stay high at the crux on P2. use the crack for your feet, and use face holds above for hands.
I've never seen anyone do it this way, and I've done this climb several times and spent lots of time at the base of the Chief on neighboring routes. It would be quite a feat and wildly insecure. I don't know how you'd protect it or get back into the crack unless you walked it all the way to the point where it turns back left. The crux is really only two moves before you get bomber finger locks (still no feet, but it'd be hard to fall out of the locks unless you just pumped out). Jul 19, 2010
Bishop, CA
Flagstaff, AZ
Boulder, CO
Denver, CO
Squamish
Stellar route, great pro, fun movement. Just go do it. Sep 26, 2012
Belltown
Idyllwild, CA
Bend, OR
Denver, CO
We used a double rope and I retied it through our anchor to set up a top rope. So much Fun! Feb 18, 2016
Burlington, ON
Would recommend doing it all in one pitch for the experience! Jul 3, 2018
Squamish, B.C.
Washington
Vancouver, BC
Ideal gear would be 3x 0.3-1, 2x nuts all sizes for single length fun
2nd pitch was a lot easier than the first, IMO, i did not feel that there was a crux Oct 7, 2022
Washington