The Sanctuary Rock Climbing
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Elevation: | 744 ft | 227 m |
GPS: |
49.7111, -123.1098 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 26,044 total · 125/month | |
Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Nov 11, 2007 | |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The Sanctuary is a little taste of Chek without leaving Squamish. This area of sport climbs is only a hop, skip and a jump from the chief and yet the granite is smooth, fine-grained and not inclined toward cracks in the way of the preponderance of Squamish granite.
The Basement area has some very impressive overhanging sport routes from 11a to 12d. The West Wing area is a little mellower with three 10s, but also some 11s and a 12a. Two other crags are in the vicinity: The Loft and The Sanitarium, but I haven't paid them a visit yet.
This area was developed by Peter Winter and Xander Botha, two guys who deserve a lot of credit for developing a lot of good crags in the Squamish area. It is covered in Marc Bourdon's ?Squamish Select? guidebook and in Kevin McLane's 2005 edition of ?The Climber's Guide to Squamish? book.
The Basement area has some very impressive overhanging sport routes from 11a to 12d. The West Wing area is a little mellower with three 10s, but also some 11s and a 12a. Two other crags are in the vicinity: The Loft and The Sanitarium, but I haven't paid them a visit yet.
This area was developed by Peter Winter and Xander Botha, two guys who deserve a lot of credit for developing a lot of good crags in the Squamish area. It is covered in Marc Bourdon's ?Squamish Select? guidebook and in Kevin McLane's 2005 edition of ?The Climber's Guide to Squamish? book.
Getting There
From Hwy. 99, turn onto Clarke Drive (just south of town, where the Hospital signs lead you), then right on Guildford and left on Westway.
Stay on Westway until it passes into the nice Raven's Plateau neighborhood and becomes Cherry Lane. Be careful to park discreetly so as to not disturb the local.
A trail is easily visible at the western limit of Cherry Lane, near where Westway enters the neighborhood. Follow this trail over a bridge and take a right on dirt/gravel access road. A bike trail breaks off left at a sign that says "Woodlot Access Road Close", follow this for about five minutes.
Take a yellow tape flagged trail left up into the forest. After gaining some height on pleasant but rough trail you'll emerge at the Basement Crag. The West Wing crag is up and left of the basement.
Stay on Westway until it passes into the nice Raven's Plateau neighborhood and becomes Cherry Lane. Be careful to park discreetly so as to not disturb the local.
A trail is easily visible at the western limit of Cherry Lane, near where Westway enters the neighborhood. Follow this trail over a bridge and take a right on dirt/gravel access road. A bike trail breaks off left at a sign that says "Woodlot Access Road Close", follow this for about five minutes.
Take a yellow tape flagged trail left up into the forest. After gaining some height on pleasant but rough trail you'll emerge at the Basement Crag. The West Wing crag is up and left of the basement.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Sanctuary
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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