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The Crescent
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.2 from 9
votes
Routes in The Basement
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Axle S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Crescent, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dog and Pony Show, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fubar S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Placebo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pleasuredome S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,608 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse James on Jul 15, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This is rumored to be the best climb at the sanctuary. The climb tackles the obvious seam on a crescent shaped wall, getting progressively steeper toward the top of the climb. The crux for me was a long move near the last bolt, although maybe the pump had something to do with this being the hard part. The route seems to pack quite a punch for it's relatively short length.
This is rated 5.12b in the squamish select book, but definitely felt harder to me. Some of the holds seemed a bit crumbly, so I would not rule out the possibility of broken holds in the past or future.
I am surprised that the guidebook gives this climb 5 stars, especially in squamish, where there are loads of excellent climbs. Fun route, but nowhere near 5 stars in my opinion.
This is rated 5.12b in the squamish select book, but definitely felt harder to me. Some of the holds seemed a bit crumbly, so I would not rule out the possibility of broken holds in the past or future.
I am surprised that the guidebook gives this climb 5 stars, especially in squamish, where there are loads of excellent climbs. Fun route, but nowhere near 5 stars in my opinion.
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