Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dick Mitten, Dave Lane 1977
Page Views: 11,144 total · 72/month
Shared By: Michael John Gray on Jul 30, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

306 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


This is a sustained fingercrack and a great climb. Its often toproped but I found it to be a fine lead. Its rock is rather polished from TR traffic.


Its on the main wall of neat and cool left of the overhang and right of the dihedral the crack looks awesome splitting the face.


Nuts, smaller cams.. you'll figure it out.
Peter Spindloe   BC
Guidebooks and posts in various locations all reference the polish this climb has received from top rope traffic. I led it this Saturday; never having done it before I can't compare to some earlier state, but it really didn't seem polished, or at least it didn't seem harder than the grade would suggest. A very enjoyable and well protected climb. Oct 23, 2006
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
This one has been loved smooth from all the ascents. Good polished fun. Jan 20, 2007
Boulder, CO
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
I thought this route was better than neat & cool. May 26, 2008
Wanderinfree Chrislip
Boulder, CO
Wanderinfree Chrislip   Boulder, CO
This route didn't seem polished at all to me. Awesome finger locks. Great route! May 26, 2008
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
Led it this past Friday, and it was a great and varied route, with tremendous texture on either side of the crack. Wish it could've gone on for another pitch. Jul 20, 2008
Michael John Gray
Queensbury, NY
Michael John Gray   Queensbury, NY
Croft is my rolemodel!

Thanks for the cool pic! Jul 26, 2008
Matt Desenberg
Limerick, ME
Matt Desenberg   Limerick, ME
Great climb, felt more 5.10 than some of the other stuff in the Bluffs. Apr 21, 2009
A little polish might not be that bad, sharp crystal finger locks kind of hurt... Jun 27, 2011
Tobias Tillemans
seattle, WA
Tobias Tillemans   seattle, WA
I think the polish is on the feet. Particularly near the crux there are some rather shiny ones. Jul 30, 2011
Matt Hoffmann
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
Locker fingers. A bit polished from all the traffic but, the gear is solid so go for it! Apr 23, 2012
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
One of the best climbs in the Smoke Bluffs area. Not that polished - still good friction, and great fingerlocks and gear. A must-do. Jun 4, 2012
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
I slipped at the crux stance while resting and blew the onsight... But! I wouldn't say it's polished, just not great happy feet. The Zip is much better at 10a tho. Aug 10, 2012
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
Locker fingers, bomber gear, sustained width. Get some. Aug 11, 2013
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
wow every comment talks about "the polish". Just shut up and climb this classic. Jul 3, 2014
Ambrose Bittner
Seattle, WA
Ambrose Bittner   Seattle, WA
A single set of nuts is all you need for gear to protect this climb. Try it, I dare you! It also saves space for your finger locks. May 25, 2016
Seattle, WA
rohanbk   Seattle, WA
This felt like the greasiest route I've ever climbed. Offset nuts made this climb feel safe. Aug 1, 2016
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
Really fun route, great locks and nice spacing between them. I cleaned it first thing on a cool morning and wondered why people talked about polish.
Then I went to lead it after the sun hit and temps were going up. Yeah the footholds are a bit polished and if you sweat at all it's going to feel really greasy. I blew a foot around the crux and took a ride on a yellow totem. Leader after me popped their foot in the same spot.

A .75 or #1 is nice to have if you want to protect easier mantle near the top. May 30, 2017
Joshua Thompson
Seattle, WA
Joshua Thompson   Seattle, WA
This was one of my funnest climbs at Smoke Bluffs. Temps were in the 80's so it was plenty hot but didn't actually have any issues. Great locks, great gear! A must do! Oh, and if Neat and Cool is a 10a, then this route is a 5.8... just saying Jun 26, 2017
Matt Hagny
Matt Hagny  
Reeeeally good! Loved it. Aug 23, 2018