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Routes in Penny Lane

Satan's slit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Balding For Dollars S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Body Snatcher , The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Clandestine Affair T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Climb & Punishment T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crime of the Century T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Drain Evader T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Health Hazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Kahoukers T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Partners In Crime T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Penny Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popeye and the Raven S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Power Windows T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quarryman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Red Rocket T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Short People T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunny Days in December T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Teenage Girls Won't Blow Gorbies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ugly American (aka Ugly Anders) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up, Up and Away T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Werewolves of London T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witch Doctor's Apprentice, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yorkshire Gripper T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: FA: Keith Rajala, C. McCafferty (aid) 1975 FFA: Anders Ourom, John Arts 1978
Page Views: 14,166 total, 103/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jul 20, 2006 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

This is a classic Smoke Bluff crack. Start with a few boulder moves off the ground. Move up into the shallow corner by stemming and jamming, it eases up as it gets higher. Over the years, a top anchor is cyclically installed and chopped. It is currently in the "chopped" condition and thus you must traverse the cliff top to the left and rappel from above Crime of the Century.

If you happen to know who is doing this, tell them to cut that shit out. It's ridiculous and unwarranted - the Smoke Bluffs done been discovered, it's a world-class destination for Pete's sake!

Protection

Single rack to #2 Camalot (2x .5 - #1 helpful)

Location

Top of the Fern Gully Trail.
Raymo
New York, NY
Raymo   New York, NY
Climbed yesterday and looks like someone chopped the anchor bolts already - bring gear for an anchor... Sep 6, 2017
Thanks to whoever installed the anchor last week! There are now chains at the top. Aug 31, 2017
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
Agreed with 20kn, would be nice for people who want to do crime of the century to not have to wait for parties to finish penny lane.

A pink tricam in addition to the yellow alien/.4 makes a great anchor. May 30, 2017
20 kN    
Great route, although I dont understand why the most popular route in the entire area doesent have an anchor, but the three routes left and right of this route do. People just end up raining rock fall down on everyone as they cut left. It used to have an anchor, it still should.

Also, you dont need a 70m to get to the ground, a 60m makes it in one rap no problem. Oct 6, 2016
Mat Brunton
  5.9+
Mat Brunton  
  5.9+
Bottom 1/3 is the hardest; it's somewhat bouldery, the crack is thin, and the rock is polished and slick (likely from so much traffic). Anchor options exist: you can continue direct up the crack through lower angle terrain to a solid tree to sling (you can rap back to ground from here with a 70m), you can move left and use 2 bolts chain anchors above Crime of the Century (don't do this if someone is on Crime), or you can move even further left of Crime of the Century for another set of 2 bolt chain anchors. Jul 12, 2015
Sean H
Salt Lake City, UT
Sean H   Salt Lake City, UT
First 20 feet or so were the crux for me. Had to trust some smeary stemming moves to gain better jams. After that, the route was straight forward. Aug 6, 2012
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.9
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.9
Fun fun fun. A bit bouldery at the start, then just great jams and feet the whole way to the top. Apr 23, 2012
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
awesome climb. to reiterate what Andy said, you have to build a gear anchor at the top of this climb. You can make due with a lg nut and some .5 camalots or big cam. then walk left and rap (dont knock pebbles down on everyone and watch your rope as it falls right over crime) Aug 8, 2011
Carl Rene Pelletier
Jackson, Wyoming
 
Carl Rene Pelletier   Jackson, Wyoming
 
Outstanding. I was laughing with glee the entire way up this fun route. Oct 7, 2009
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9
Um, as good as 5.9 handcracks get. Excellent stuff.

The rap bolts are way left of the climb. Easiest to build a small anchor on top and bring your second up. Be careful of not dropping rocks on the folks below when walking to the anchor. Aug 19, 2008
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
Climbed it in August 2007 and it is getting a little worn. Very fun! Mar 2, 2008