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Sky Pilot Rock Climbing
Routes in Sky Pilot
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East Face T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow |
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West Buttress T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Easy Snow |
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| Elevation: | 6,644 ft | 2,025 m |
| GPS: |
49.63544, -123.08653 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 9,620 total · 108/month | |
| Shared By: | Eric Bowes on Aug 15, 2017 | |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
From Kevin McLane's 'Alpine Select':
Sky Pilot is a fine craggy peak southeast of Squamish, the highest summit for some distance. Although it has little interest in the way of rock routes, there are two good mountaineering climbs up the east and west flanks. Easily day-tripped, an ascent of the East Face and descent of the West Buttress is the best outing on the mountain. The First acsent of this peak was made in 1910 by Basil Darling, H. Dowler, A. Morkill, J. Haggard, and Grubbe. There is no clear record of the first ascents of the climbs described.
Sky Pilot is a fine craggy peak southeast of Squamish, the highest summit for some distance. Although it has little interest in the way of rock routes, there are two good mountaineering climbs up the east and west flanks. Easily day-tripped, an ascent of the East Face and descent of the West Buttress is the best outing on the mountain. The First acsent of this peak was made in 1910 by Basil Darling, H. Dowler, A. Morkill, J. Haggard, and Grubbe. There is no clear record of the first ascents of the climbs described.
Getting There
Same approach as for Mt. Habrich. Two options exist:
(1) Stawamus-Indian FSR: From highway Highway 99 below the Chief, exit onto the Mamquam FSR. Turn right after 3.9 km onto the Stawamus-Indian FSR (4WD). Follow the road uphill (you're in a watershed here) for a further 1.5 km, then turn right (400m after the bridge over the river) onto the Shannon Creek branch. This leads up steeply behind the Chief and eventually reaches a Forest Service Blockade, 9 km from the highway. Continue on the road unil you reach the gondola area and follow the signs for Sky Pilot.
(2) Take the Sea-to-Sky gondola to the gondola area and follow the signs for sky pilot.
(1) Stawamus-Indian FSR: From highway Highway 99 below the Chief, exit onto the Mamquam FSR. Turn right after 3.9 km onto the Stawamus-Indian FSR (4WD). Follow the road uphill (you're in a watershed here) for a further 1.5 km, then turn right (400m after the bridge over the river) onto the Shannon Creek branch. This leads up steeply behind the Chief and eventually reaches a Forest Service Blockade, 9 km from the highway. Continue on the road unil you reach the gondola area and follow the signs for Sky Pilot.
(2) Take the Sea-to-Sky gondola to the gondola area and follow the signs for sky pilot.
Classic Climbing Routes at Sky Pilot
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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