Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1312 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 373 total · 23/month
Shared By: Eric Bowes on Aug 15, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

From Kevin McLane's 'Alpine Select':

By far the most popular route on the mountain. It makes a fine day trip, especially in the early season when snow cover makes approach and descent travel fast. From the wide basin of the Stadium Glacier on the northwest side of the mountain, head up the west ridge. A short rock step on the ridge (4th) leads to east, broken terrain on the south side, bypassing the large tower on the west ridge to reach 3rd class chimney-gullies on its south side. On the tower's summit ridge, walk toward another steep tower barring progress toward the peak. Drop down right of this tower and traverse around its south side to reach a gully that follows back up to the high gap between the tower and the summit slope/ A scramble of a few minutes leads to the top. (2-3h). To descend, reverse the route.

Protection

ice axe, crampons

Photos

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Gavin W
Langley, BC
  4th Easy Snow
Gavin W   Langley, BC
  4th Easy Snow
The route has two rappel stations: one at the top of the chimney just below the summit, and another above the pink slabs. If you aren't confident downclimbing up to easy 5th class (go 10 feet one way or the other off the easiest line and you're into that) then I would recommend a rope.
Once you reach the Stadium Glacier, head directly across it, towards a small clump of trees just below the saddle between Sky Pilot and Copilot. Sep 4, 2017