All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > The Chief > The Apron
Avg: 3.6 from 219 votes
Routes in The Apron
|A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b|
|Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13|
|Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13|
|White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||FFA Bob Milward and Jim Campbell, 1983|
|Page Views:||18,587 total, 140/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Spindloe on Jan 20, 2007|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Kate Lynn|
Descriptionp1. A few dirty moves off the ground get you past a tree with exposed roots and into beautiful clean granite corners and cracks. A fun 5.8 crux makes you layback or fist jam.
p2. Step out left from the belay and climb the clean corner or undercling a crack a little further left (both seem to be graded the same, but left feels easier). A few blocky sections then lead to a perfect belay ledge.
p3. This 5.9 pitch is awkward and strenuous, starting with a solid couple of layback moves into a flaring crack. After a few moves in the crack you can move onto the left wall and pass tough moves with good protection. Traverse far left under the roof and across a steep gully to a bolted belay.
p4. The long crux pitch starts with an intimidating corner. Three small nuts can be placed to protect this corner -- take your time and place them well. The difficulty eases and then gradually ratchets back up as you work up a steepening corner to a 10a mantle crux. Climb ten more feet past the crux to a very cool belay. I've done this route twice a group of three and this belay is tight for two, but possible if no one minds getting cozy.
p5. This pitch can be linked with the previous one. It's short but burly. Three cams (camalots 0.5, 1, and 2) are entirely sufficient for the entire pitch (so if you have just led p4 and have those pieces, keep going).
p6. If you belayed after pitch 4, just link this one with p5. This 5.7 pitch leads to the trees.
Either continue up the Squamish Buttress or The Ultimate Everything, or descend by walking along the treed ledge to a bolted rap station that will drop you in the Memorial Ledge swimming pool (only by carrying the loose end of the rope with you will you have a chance of keeping it dry). From Memorial Ledge you can traverse south to the usual Apron descent.
LocationThis climb is on the vertical left edge of the Apron and start from about a hundred feet up the South Gully. From the Apron parking lot, walk up the Mamquam Forest Service Road a little more than hundred feet until a trail heads up towards the cliff. The trail should take you into the gully. Hike the gully until looking back and right you can see a left facing corner system running the height of the cliff. It's not visible until you are a little past it. Good landmarks include the incredible arching 5.13 crack of The Great Arch left of the climb and a variety of abandoned fixed ropes in the area.
I haven't been able to check this myself, but reports of massive amounts of debris coming out of the South Gully during the storms of late 2006 and early 2007 indicate that the approach trail may be completely covered.