Avg: 3.6 from 314 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||FFA Bob Milward and Jim Campbell, 1983|
|Page Views:||28,174 total · 171/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Spindloe on Jan 20, 2007 with 1 Suggestions|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
p2. Step out left from the belay and climb the clean corner or undercling a crack a little further left (both seem to be graded the same, but left feels easier). A few blocky sections then lead to a perfect belay ledge.
p3. This 5.9 pitch is awkward and strenuous, starting with a solid couple of layback moves into a flaring crack. After a few moves in the crack you can move onto the left wall and pass tough moves with good protection. Traverse far left under the roof and across a steep gully to a bolted belay.
p4. The long crux pitch starts with an intimidating corner. Three small nuts can be placed to protect this corner -- take your time and place them well. The difficulty eases and then gradually ratchets back up as you work up a steepening corner to a 10a mantle crux. Climb ten more feet past the crux to a very cool belay. I've done this route twice a group of three and this belay is tight for two, but possible if no one minds getting cozy.
p5. This pitch can be linked with the previous one. It's short but burly. Three cams (camalots 0.5, 1, and 2) are entirely sufficient for the entire pitch (so if you have just led p4 and have those pieces, keep going).
p6. If you belayed after pitch 4, just link this one with p5. This 5.7 pitch leads to the trees.
Either continue up the Squamish Buttress or The Ultimate Everything, or descend by walking along the treed ledge to a bolted rap station that will drop you in the Memorial Ledge swimming pool (only by carrying the loose end of the rope with you will you have a chance of keeping it dry). From Memorial Ledge you can traverse south to the usual Apron descent.