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> N Apron
Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in North Apron
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Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eleven Words for Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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St. Bernard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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St. Vitus' Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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That Dog Don't Hunt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 390 ft (118 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Stu smith |
| Page Views: | 1,360 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Stu Smith on May 9, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024
Details
For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.
––––––––––
TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE
Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.
Posted April 17, 2023
––––––––––
Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.
NORTH WALL CLOSURE
The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.
Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…
Updated June 30, 2023
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
All anchors are Fixed. mix trad and bolted route up near vertical rock with some small over hung sections
Pitch #1 5.10 Start up slab by arete until it is possible to move right into a near horizontal power layback, climb this until you gain the lip and follow the crack back left and up to the anchor.
Pitch #2 5.10 continue following crack up and slightly left to two opposing pancake flakes which climb beautifully straight up, one these flakes die out climb up and right gaining a very cool exposed no hands rest near the first bolt, move directly right to a wild move to gain some more sweet pancake flakes (shorties may have to jump) climb the flakes straight up until they die out and clip the second bolt, gain the small foot ledge up and right to clip the anchors.
Pitch #3 5.11 Reach up to clip a bolt to the left of the anchors, then climb down and left to gain the corner, climb this straight up till its end and clip a bolt, make some crispy/balancey slab moves past two more bolts to gain the stunning corner system climb this up to where it turns completely horizontal, make the transition and traverse left with some wicked undercling moves, follow easy terrain up and left to a tough move to gain the big tree and the tree ledge, continue straight up to anchors.
Pitch #4 5.11 slightly right of the anchor boulder up to a ledge and a bolt, boulder again straight up to gain a lay back crack system which will take you to the lip of the roof, turn the lip with awesome moves, then great face climbing will take you up to a tiny ledge and the second bolt, make some hard moves to gain the third bolt and up and left to anchors.
Pitch #5 5.12a climb left clip a bolt and boulder straight up to gain micro crimps then left to gain easier ground, climb straight up to a dead end at a roof, gain a crimp rail over the lip clip a bolt and traverse left on tiny holds and horrible feet (Campus anyone?) once at the end of the crimper rail make a throw for a awesome hueco and clip a bolt. continue up and left to anchor
Pitch #6 5.9 walk left on tiny ledge and clip and bolt then climb straight up then right following the easiest way to the anchor and top of climb! you top out right where the trail from the apron to the upper climbs i.e. buttress/ultimate everything comes close to the gully's lip. either continue up to other climbs or you can rap down the route
Descent: 4 35m raps get you the ground. off the top do a 35m rap to the top of the 4th pitch then a 35m rap to the tree ledge, walk right on the tree ledge over a cool side walk like chunk of rock to a fixed anchor by a large tree, do another 35m rap to the top of the 3rd pitch, and a final 35m rap to the ground.
Pitch #1 5.10 Start up slab by arete until it is possible to move right into a near horizontal power layback, climb this until you gain the lip and follow the crack back left and up to the anchor.
Pitch #2 5.10 continue following crack up and slightly left to two opposing pancake flakes which climb beautifully straight up, one these flakes die out climb up and right gaining a very cool exposed no hands rest near the first bolt, move directly right to a wild move to gain some more sweet pancake flakes (shorties may have to jump) climb the flakes straight up until they die out and clip the second bolt, gain the small foot ledge up and right to clip the anchors.
Pitch #3 5.11 Reach up to clip a bolt to the left of the anchors, then climb down and left to gain the corner, climb this straight up till its end and clip a bolt, make some crispy/balancey slab moves past two more bolts to gain the stunning corner system climb this up to where it turns completely horizontal, make the transition and traverse left with some wicked undercling moves, follow easy terrain up and left to a tough move to gain the big tree and the tree ledge, continue straight up to anchors.
Pitch #4 5.11 slightly right of the anchor boulder up to a ledge and a bolt, boulder again straight up to gain a lay back crack system which will take you to the lip of the roof, turn the lip with awesome moves, then great face climbing will take you up to a tiny ledge and the second bolt, make some hard moves to gain the third bolt and up and left to anchors.
Pitch #5 5.12a climb left clip a bolt and boulder straight up to gain micro crimps then left to gain easier ground, climb straight up to a dead end at a roof, gain a crimp rail over the lip clip a bolt and traverse left on tiny holds and horrible feet (Campus anyone?) once at the end of the crimper rail make a throw for a awesome hueco and clip a bolt. continue up and left to anchor
Pitch #6 5.9 walk left on tiny ledge and clip and bolt then climb straight up then right following the easiest way to the anchor and top of climb! you top out right where the trail from the apron to the upper climbs i.e. buttress/ultimate everything comes close to the gully's lip. either continue up to other climbs or you can rap down the route
Descent: 4 35m raps get you the ground. off the top do a 35m rap to the top of the 4th pitch then a 35m rap to the tree ledge, walk right on the tree ledge over a cool side walk like chunk of rock to a fixed anchor by a large tree, do another 35m rap to the top of the 3rd pitch, and a final 35m rap to the ground.
Location
Approach as for Rock on, when at the start of rock on follow trail up gully, passing the start of the opal on your right, the climb is visible now. continue up the gully following faint trail on the opal side until you reach the base of the climb, on your right (rock on side) can't miss it.
Photos
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