Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: G. Woodsworth, R. Woodsworth, 1964
Page Views: 3,065 total · 22/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Sep 1, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This climb parallels St. Vitus Dance, finishing on its third pitch.

The first first pitch is one of the best pitches on the Apron -- a full 50m of hands, fists and about 10 feet of offwidth. The second pitch joins St. Vitus third pitch partway up.

Location

From the little patch of forest that is usually considered the start of St. Vitus dance, walk about 15 feet to the right and you'll find yourself looking up at a beautiful hand-crack. Climb it.

Protection

It's possible to do this climb with a "standard" rack with no doubles, as long as you have one bigger piece (#4 camalot). This requires a fair bit of back cleaning, sliding pieces up, and running it out a bit, but the jams are so good that it feels very comfortable. The offwidth section barely takes a #4 camalot; it's badly tipped out at a few points as you slide it up. Adding a #4.5 camalot, and doubles in the .75, #1, #2 and #3 sizes would allow you to sew it up. Thanks to variations in parallel cracks and the way it pinches down in the back, you can often leave behind a nut and save a cam. After 50m you get to a nice ledge with one bolt which can be backed up with a variety of cams (much trickier with nuts).

The second pitch is much shorter, easier, and takes a few hand-sized pieces.
Dave E.
washington
Dave E.   washington
Reccomended finish, from the top of the long jamcrack that ends at a ledge with a single belay bolt as described above. Step right to a ramp in a right facing corner that steepens with a shallow flaring hand crack. Carefull with pro as it flares quite a bit near the top(crux,"Squamish Select" says 10.c, i thought it was more like 10.a). At the top of the corner, continue straight up joining the final pitch on st. vitus's dance at the bulging handcrack "roofs". Did this in july of 07 and thought it was spectacular. More challenging and cleaner than the original route Oct 16, 2007
Peter Spindloe
BC
  5.9
Peter Spindloe   BC
  5.9
The alternate finish suggested above definitely looks good. We debated it, but were on a very tight timeline so we stuck with the original route. I'll definitely want to do P1 again, so I'll give this a try next time. Oct 30, 2007
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
The alternate finish is the only way to go, IMHO- the crack above the belay looks dirty and uninviting and while the select calls it .10c, id call it maybe .9 or so, it was way easier than it looked and protects very well if you had doubles from .75 to 2 c4.

Good route overall, lots of fun. Jul 15, 2010
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9
The Vector crack is really fun! A full 55m of quality wide hand crack, with about a 10 foot section of enjoyable, low-angle offwidth. I had 2 x #2s, 3 x #3s, 1 x #3.5, 2 x #4, and 1 x #5 and was perfectly comfy. But even with that rack I was back cleaning a fair bit. That being said, I went all the way to the belay with one bolt and did not stop of the ledge about 2/3 of the way up. If you did that, you might be able to get by with less gear (but save some hand size cams for the belay!).

The alternate, right hand hand crack above the Vector crack was also great climbing... but it's definitely a sandbag to call it 5.9 (sorry John!). My wife and I both thought 10a or so. It protects well with hand size camalots (#0.75-#3), but take care as the crack is flaring at spots. Additionally, the exit move didn't have the most obvious pro and I fiddled for a while but finally slotting in a shallow (but solid) midsize offsite nut. I had to clean out the crack to find it. YMMV.

The best belay after the variation pitch is to immediately step left over the bush to St. Vitus' belay or go up about 10' and belay where the crack pinches down to green camalot size, or so.

Bring some meaty shoes - rough climb on the toes! Aug 13, 2013
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.10
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.10
The 50m pitch is absolutely deluxe - longer and much more fun than St Vitus, which will take the same rack. Slammer hands to double-fist stacks for 50m, all at a cruisey 5.8 grade. Took Andy's gear recommendation and felt very comfy - had a big selection of gear for the belay (I backed the bolt up with a bomber #2 and #3 C4.)

Seems the original p2 is a little grown over since, based on these coments, most people must take the 5.10 corner variation. It felt like solid 5.10 to me, and I graded the route accordingly. This pitch looked amazing from the belay and I was really excited to climb it, but it was more shallow and flaring than I'd scoped. Takes solid gear, found the exit moves pretty techy though - harder than most 10a pitches I've climbed in Squamish. Linked this pitch with the vertical 5.9 fist moves to the big tree on St. Vitus, and this seemed logical. Apr 9, 2016
ihategrigris
Vancouver, BC
 
ihategrigris   Vancouver, BC
 
This is a classic climb, one of the longest continuous spliter crack on the Apron. For the true crack aficionado, 75m of pure, continious crack! Bring a #5 to protect the 4-5m of offwidth. Jul 4, 2017