Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: G. Woodsworth, R. Woodsworth, 1964
Page Views: 3,370 total · 23/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Sep 1, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This climb parallels St. Vitus Dance, finishing on its third pitch.

The first first pitch is one of the best pitches on the Apron -- a full 50m of hands, fists and about 10 feet of offwidth. The second pitch joins St. Vitus third pitch partway up.

Location

From the little patch of forest that is usually considered the start of St. Vitus dance, walk about 15 feet to the right and you'll find yourself looking up at a beautiful hand-crack. Climb it.

Protection

It's possible to do this climb with a "standard" rack with no doubles, as long as you have one bigger piece (#4 camalot). This requires a fair bit of back cleaning, sliding pieces up, and running it out a bit, but the jams are so good that it feels very comfortable. The offwidth section barely takes a #4 camalot; it's badly tipped out at a few points as you slide it up. Adding a #4.5 camalot, and doubles in the .75, #1, #2 and #3 sizes would allow you to sew it up. Thanks to variations in parallel cracks and the way it pinches down in the back, you can often leave behind a nut and save a cam. After 50m you get to a nice ledge with one bolt which can be backed up with a variety of cams (much trickier with nuts).

The second pitch is much shorter, easier, and takes a few hand-sized pieces.

Photos