Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 49.68766, -123.14493
FA: G. Woodsworth, R. Woodsworth, 1964
Page Views: 5,900 total · 27/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Sep 1, 2007
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra
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Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This climb parallels St. Vitus Dance, finishing on its third pitch.

The first first pitch is one of the best pitches on the Apron -- a full 50m of hands, fists and about 10 feet of offwidth. The second pitch joins St. Vitus third pitch partway up.

Location Suggest change

From the little patch of forest that is usually considered the start of St. Vitus dance, walk about 15 feet to the right and you'll find yourself looking up at a beautiful hand-crack. Climb it.

Protection Suggest change

It's possible to do this climb with a "standard" rack with no doubles, as long as you have one bigger piece (#4 camalot). This requires a fair bit of back cleaning, sliding pieces up, and running it out a bit, but the jams are so good that it feels very comfortable. The offwidth section barely takes a #4 camalot; it's badly tipped out at a few points as you slide it up. Adding a #4.5 camalot, and doubles in the .75, #1, #2 and #3 sizes would allow you to sew it up. Thanks to variations in parallel cracks and the way it pinches down in the back, you can often leave behind a nut and save a cam. After 50m you get to a nice ledge with one bolt which can be backed up with a variety of cams (much trickier with nuts).

The second pitch is much shorter, easier, and takes a few hand-sized pieces.

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Photos

Vector - the obvious crack above the tree
Vector - the obvious crack above the tree
 1
10(c) Variation. This should be part of the original route. If you go the original way, you're crawling over dirt and bushes and it's not fun.
10(c) Variation. This should be part of the or…
 3
Looking down the first pitch (3rd) of Vector
Looking down the first pitch (3rd) of Vector
 2
Looking up at Vector. The first pitch ends roughly where you see the tree on the skyline (although the ledge is actually about 15 feet below the tree). The crux offwidth section is easily visible where two cracks merge.
Looking up at Vector. The first pitch ends rou…
 2
About a 10ft section of off-width, you just got to give 'er unless you have some really big gear.
About a 10ft section of off-width, you just got…
 5
This is the start of Vector
This is the start of Vector
 4
Simon finishing the first pitch of Vector.
Simon finishing the first pitch of Vector.
 2
If you're going to do Vector, I highly recommend the variation to the right for the 2nd (4th) pitch. It protects extremely well except at the exit, where the only hard move comes into play but I'm fat and out of shape and did it with no problems.
If you're going to do Vector, I highly recommen…
 1
Looking down the 1st (3rd) pitch of Vector. The ledge on the right is the top of the 3rd pitch of St. Vitus
Looking down the 1st (3rd) pitch of Vector. Th…
 1
This crack will eat you up. It'll also eat up your large cams. Save some one's or two's to build your anchor. There is one bolt which helps.
This crack will eat you up. It'll also eat up…
 2

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