All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Apron > N Apron

Rock On Direct (aka Hard On)

Name: Rock On Direct (aka Hard On)
Rating: 3.4

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in North Apron

L › R R › L A › Z

	Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Eleven Words for Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Form S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	St. Bernard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	St. Vitus' Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Terror, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	That Dog Don't Hunt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 3 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	49.68766, -123.14493
FA:	Bob Milward and Bruce Kay July 1983. FFA Jack Lewis, Peter Hiltner and Valerie Rossner, also July 1983.
Page Views:	4,877 total · 30/month
Shared By:	Colin Parker on Jul 30, 2012
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

This route is a variation to the first three pitches of the classic Rock On and can be done in one super-long pitch with a 70m rope, but is most commonly done in two pitches, saving the crux for the second pitch. After clipping a pair of bolts low on the first pitch, the climb ascends a corner system just left of Rock On. You will pass an anchor about ninety feet off the ground as you make your way up to a second anchor another seventy feet up. The climbing is characterized by stemming and laybacking in corners with finger cracks. The cruxes are short, with one layback corner crux and the other being the final small overhang, both clocking in around 5.10a. The second pitch is about eighty feet long and tackles the crux roof above the anchor. The finger crack in the back of this roof is somewhat thin and challenging for folks with large fingers. Once you pull the roof the fingers get progressively better until you are rewarded with jugs another ten or fifteen feet later. This pitch clocks in at a solid 5.10c and reminded me of the crux of Blazing Saddles somewhat.

Overall I find this variation to be a worthy alternative to Rock On when conditions are right. Some folks may find it a bit dirtier than its neighbor, but the climbing is top notch.