Type: Trad, 230 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA Bob Milward and Bruce Kay July 1983. FFA Jack Lewis, Peter Hiltner and Valerie Rossner, also July 1983.
Page Views: 1,808 total · 23/month
Shared By: Colin Parker on Jul 30, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

This route is a variation to the first three pitches of the classic Rock On and can be done in one super-long pitch with a 70m rope, but is most commonly done in two pitches, saving the crux for the second pitch. After clipping a pair of bolts low on the first pitch, the climb ascends a corner system just left of Rock On. You will pass an anchor about ninety feet off the ground as you make your way up to a second anchor another seventy feet up. The climbing is characterized by stemming and laybacking in corners with finger cracks. The cruxes are short, with one layback corner crux and the other being the final small overhang, both clocking in around 5.10a. The second pitch is about eighty feet long and tackles the crux roof above the anchor. The finger crack in the back of this roof is somewhat thin and challenging for folks with large fingers. Once you pull the roof the fingers get progressively better until you are rewarded with jugs another ten or fifteen feet later. This pitch clocks in at a solid 5.10c and reminded me of the crux of Blazing Saddles somewhat.

Overall I find this variation to be a worthy alternative to Rock On when conditions are right. Some folks may find it a bit dirtier than its neighbor, but the climbing is top notch.

Location

Just left of Rock On, this route starts on some dirty ledges and wanders past a pair of bolts into the corner systems above.

Protection

Standard Rack to 2" and a pair of draws

Photos

Dru B.  
This route is called "Rock On Direct". FA Bob Milward and Bruce Kay July 1983. FFA Jack Lewis, Peter Hiltner and Valerie Rossner, same month and year. Jul 31, 2012
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10c
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10c
Thanks Dru, I've updated the information. I don't know where my route name came from, I thought my friend got it from the guidebook... oh well. Aug 11, 2012
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
 
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
 
Some tricky finger locks but, a lot of fun! Well worth doing especially if there is a line and you can get up it quick! Oct 12, 2012
Rick Ziegler  
 
Three pitches of great finger crack/corner climbing. Clean and steep Aug 23, 2013
Alex Weber  
 
OMG I found that 10c crux so hard! Mostly just trying to find adequate protection... argh! May 22, 2018