Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||D. Gennal, M. Jansen, 2003|
|Page Views:||1,401 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Peter Spindloe on Sep 1, 2007|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
The first 40 feet of the first pitch are the business here -- hard friction, and fairly well bolted. The 10b alternate start joins once the crux start is done, it the climbing is still tenuous. There are bolts, but it's not a sport climb. The last 20 feet of the first pitch consists of a slippery crack to an obvious bolted belay below and overlap.
The second pitch (5.10b) traverses left under the overlap and then up into a corner that uses a combination of friction and small holds on the right wall, finger-tips in the crack and the occasional stem on he right wall. A relatively short pitch, but fun.
The third pitch (5.9) takes you to the little patch of forest that marks the start of St. Vitus Dance, Calculus Crack and Vector.
The second pitch goes on few finger sized nuts and cams, but a larger cam (#3 or #3.5 camalot) under the overlap will protect the moves off the belay.