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Crack Slabbeth
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in North Apron
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Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eleven Words for Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Form S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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St. Bernard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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St. Vitus' Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Terror, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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That Dog Don't Hunt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.68766, -123.14493 |
| FA: | D. Gennal, M. Jansen, 2003 |
| Page Views: | 2,094 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Spindloe on Sep 1, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A name that's clever and descriptive. This climb requires honed Squamish friction technique, as well as, to a lesser degree, some crack proficiency. Fortunately, there's an alternate start to the first pitch that brings the entire route down to a slightly sandbagged 10b. This climb makes an good alternate approach to St. Vitus Dance or Vector.
The first 40 feet of the first pitch are the business here -- hard friction, and fairly well bolted. The 10b alternate start joins once the crux start is done, it the climbing is still tenuous. There are bolts, but it's not a sport climb. The last 20 feet of the first pitch consists of a slippery crack to an obvious bolted belay below and overlap.
The second pitch (5.10b) traverses left under the overlap and then up into a corner that uses a combination of friction and small holds on the right wall, finger-tips in the crack and the occasional stem on he right wall. A relatively short pitch, but fun.
The third pitch (5.9) takes you to the little patch of forest that marks the start of St. Vitus Dance, Calculus Crack and Vector.
Location
This climb has what must be the shortest approach to any Apron climb from the main Apron parking lot. Head up the forest service road and take the very first trail that heads up and right. It's only a few steps up the road from the lot. At a T-juntion go right. The trail will dead end in a clearing in front of a slab with two scrubbed lines. The left line is Crack Slabbeth, the right is Evergreen State. The 10b alternate start is back left and up some wild tree routes to a comfy belay on a log.
Protection
The first pitch is mostly bolted, but as with most slabs, the distance between bolts keeps it very exciting. The 10b start has bigger distances between the bolts than the 11c.
The second pitch goes on few finger sized nuts and cams, but a larger cam (#3 or #3.5 camalot) under the overlap will protect the moves off the belay.
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