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Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: D. Gennal, M. Jansen, 2003
Page Views: 899 total · 7/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Sep 1, 2007
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

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Description

A name that's clever and descriptive. This climb requires honed Squamish friction technique, as well as, to a lesser degree, some crack proficiency. Fortunately, there's an alternate start to the first pitch that brings the entire route down to a slightly sandbagged 10b. This climb makes an good alternate approach to St. Vitus Dance or Vector.

The first 40 feet of the first pitch are the business here -- hard friction, and fairly well bolted. The 10b alternate start joins once the crux start is done, it the climbing is still tenuous. There are bolts, but it's not a sport climb. The last 20 feet of the first pitch consists of a slippery crack to an obvious bolted belay below and overlap.

The second pitch (5.10b) traverses left under the overlap and then up into a corner that uses a combination of friction and small holds on the right wall, finger-tips in the crack and the occasional stem on he right wall. A relatively short pitch, but fun.

The third pitch (5.9) takes you to the little patch of forest that marks the start of St. Vitus Dance, Calculus Crack and Vector.

Location

This climb has what must be the shortest approach to any Apron climb from the main Apron parking lot. Head up the forest service road and take the very first trail that heads up and right. It's only a few steps up the road from the lot. At a T-juntion go right. The trail will dead end in a clearing in front of a slab with two scrubbed lines. The left line is Crack Slabbeth, the right is Evergreen State. The 10b alternate start is back left and up some wild tree routes to a comfy belay on a log.

Protection

The first pitch is mostly bolted, but as with most slabs, the distance between bolts keeps it very exciting. The 10b start has bigger distances between the bolts than the 11c.

The second pitch goes on few finger sized nuts and cams, but a larger cam (#3 or #3.5 camalot) under the overlap will protect the moves off the belay.

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