Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Fred Beckey, D. Beckstead, 1966
Page Views: 24,257 total · 206/month
Shared By: sibylle Hechtel on Jul 21, 2009 with updates from Joshua Thompson
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details


The start of this climb shares the same two pitches as St. Vitus Dance.

Pitch 1. A committing move gets you off the ground.  Work your way up pulling on roots and using large cracks.  Larger cams are a good idea for the last section of this pitch if you're not that comfortable with crack climbing yet.  5.8(?)

Pitch 2.  Step out left and onto the face, using multiple cracks to work your way up to a bolted anchor on the right. 5.7(?)

Pitch 3. Step back out onto the face an work your way around a tree and up two stellar cracks that run side by side.  When nearing the the end of the cracks, start looking left for the thin finger crack and small ledge just below.  This is where you want to set up your belay.  A second option is to set up the belay on the parallel cracks just to the right of the finger crack and save your small gear for pitch 4. 5.6(?)

Pitch 4.  Fun and easy finger crack that takes gear really good.  Follow this crack up and end up on a ramp on the left and build your anchor here. 5.8

Pitch 5. Low angle slab. Start off the ramp going up and right.  Work your way to a crack to plug some gear, then head straight up to the trees.  People tend to want to head right for some reason. Don't do that. 5-


This climb starts on Baseline Ledge on the north Buttress of the Apron.


Gear to 4", doubles for trad anchors at belays.
Dan Petty
Wheat Ridge, CO
Dan Petty   Wheat Ridge, CO
Very well protected. Oct 1, 2011
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
Really fun climbing. Don't know where the PG13 rating could possibly be warranted. Even the upper, 5.0 slab had a handcrack option.

I pitched this out as follows (after getting to Baseline Ledge, which is one or two pitches of 5.7 scramble but fun).

P1: Romped up the parallel cracks (5.6), then step left to a finger-sized crack for gear belay.

P2: Climbed the finger crack to some other harder moves as the crack slowly widens to thin-hands. (5.8, then easier again.) Angle kicks back and there's a great place for a thin-hand to hand gear belay on a low-angle ramp on a left-facing corner. Good place to stay in the shade.

P3: Easy climbing again, rings to hands to a bolted belay off right. (5.7, but mostly easy.)

P4: 5.0 walk with a fun hand crack to the trees.

Tried to link the last two pitches with a 70m but came up short and downclimbed the crack. Kevin McClane pitched this out in 3 pitches in his guide, is it possible to go straight from the finger-crack to the bolted anchor with or without a 70m? Aug 5, 2012
From P 3 belay (little ledge) through the awesome fingers/hands long moderate section you can stretch a 60m to a nice comfy ledge, but save a #1 & 2 C4 for the belay.

Got lost on 2nd jungleering pitch but just keept going up and to the left. Aug 12, 2012
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
Well protected, not PG13. If you notice bad wind in the parking lot you will be in for an adventure on this route. After climbing a very windy 190 feet of 5.6 wide crack you step left into an amazing finger crack that is truly on the edge of the apron. The wind RIPS through this section of the climb pulling helmets off, chalk bags sideways, the rope, and of course you. That being said, it's quite the windy adventure if you get it on a day like that! Aug 16, 2012
Matt Hoffmann
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
Mega classic for the grade. Solid jams the whole way and fun fun fun. Oct 12, 2012
Elizabeth Leddy  
I'm also -1 on saying this is PG13. very well protected.

This route was great for a post rain day. Minus the first 2 pitches, the rest dry quickly. The second pitch was very wet the day after a rain and there was definitely some cussing happening but it was fine. Just wear long pants to wipe your feet off on. You know you are at the start of the route because you are literally climbing the first pitch through trees and dirt. There is a fixed line to the right.

You can string this together with Elaines crack (5.10a) and then memorial crack (5.9) for 8 pitches of wooohoo! that tops out at the top of the buttress. 5 rappels (not 4 like the book says) to get off or hike off. The 2nd rappel is a rope stretcher so don't forget to tie knots. The rappels go near the base of the climb so you can leave your pack. Jul 1, 2013
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
This can make a very fast route to the top of the Apron with a few linked pitches and a healthy number of slings:

P1: (From the ground) Link the root-pulling jungle pitches to the bolted anchors on the left below Calculus proper. Place as little as possible and extend everything with runners. Rope stretcher - advise your belayer to stand as high as possible on the pedestal when running low on rope. (5.8 ~70m)

P2: Romp up through easy climbing and build a gear belay just below the finger crack (5.6 ~40m)

P3: Link the next 2 pitches through the finger crack (stiff 5.8) to easier and wider climbing. Keep going past the gear belay spot and duck right after 55m along the easy slab towards the bolted anchor. Extend everything after the finger cracks. (5.8 ~68m)

P4: Easy padding and jamming to the trees (Low 5th ~45m)

I found doubles to #3 was fine for linking what I've listed as pitch 3. May 22, 2016
Serge Smirnov
Seattle, WA
Serge Smirnov   Seattle, WA
Could easily use 3-4 each of 0.5 and 0.75 camalots (especially if forced by traffic to belay at suboptimal locations) Aug 7, 2016
Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
Andrew Mayer   Driggs, ID
Great route! Highly recommend linking the 5.8 finger crack with the easier pitch above all the way to the bolts out right on the slab. Easily done with a 70m rope and double rack and makes for a long money pitch.

Walkoff beta (if not continuing up the buttress) - from the trees, scramble up & left via a fixed line to gain a prominent right-angling 4th class gully system. scramble up this (passing memorial ledge on your left) to its terminus. follow the well traveled path to the right till it peters out above some slab. complete an exposed traverse trending slightly down with a jug rail for your hands and a short section of thin feet (those squeamish about exposure may want rock shoes on for this). a short remaining traverse/downclimb will put you on broadway ledge immediately above the top of Diedre. continue south along the trail/gully system to reach the nice trail in the trees that will eventually deposit you on the Apron Connector trail south of the Apron parking lot.

Approx. 90min - 2 hrs depending on your pace. enjoy!
Aug 16, 2016
Michael Nill
Seattle, WA
Michael Nill   Seattle, WA
The gear belay below the finger crack takes nuts really well, no need for triples. Doubles of 0.4-0.5 were nice for the finger crack with the belay, nuts worked fine too. The PG13 rating is lies.

I strongly recommend the rappel descent, super fast with 4 raps. We climbed with a 70, I think a 60 could make it easily with a little rope stretch, read the book. Sep 12, 2016
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
IMHO, there's no reason not to use the Direct start to this route as it is the start of the crack system that forms Calculus crack and is the logical start to the route. It's also way more fun than the Vitus start.

With a 70m line, you can make the bolts at the top of 2 from the ground, which is nice. Jul 14, 2017
Julius Elinson
Boulder, CO
Julius Elinson   Boulder, CO
Rappel beta: The rap anchor is on the slab to climber's left (before the top-out ledge with trees) -- see photo. The first rap is really short. You may be tempted to skip this and go straight to the next ledge but a 70m won't reach! All 4 raps were straightforward and actually fun. Clean pulls. At the bottom, it's a quick hike down a creek bed that branches off onto a trail. The trail goes back along Calculus Direct and then the start of St Vitus' Dance. Sep 23, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
This past weekend, we got in line for the St. Vitus start around 8:30am. We knew there was a group on the route already, one group headed up the same start, and other groups were going up the direct start. We eventually found ourselves somewhere near the front of nine groups (all pairs thankfully). We "passed" the group ahead of us on the top-out slabs. My partner arrived at 2:30pm. We walked off instead of rapping and met the group in front of us who did at the parking lot. Six hours (plus walk-off) for two-and-a-half quality pitches isn't a good ratio, in my opinion. Unless you really don't mind waiting for hours to get in a few classic easy pitches, I'd recommend going cragging at the Bluffs or the Malamute or the Papoose. Weekend lines for Skywalker and Diedre are probably even worse. Sep 28, 2017
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
Some folks suggest linking pitches 1 and 2 with a 70m. We tried this and ours did not reach without the belayer simuling past the committing move at the top of the start pedestal. Nov 14, 2018