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Routes in The Apron
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A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Born Again T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bottom Line, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Crystal Burst S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mickey Mouse S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Read Between the Lines T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Slab Alley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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St. Bernard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unfinished Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
| FA: | Fred Beckey, D. Beckstead, 1966 |
| Page Views: | 36,410 total · 251/month |
| Shared By: | sibylle Hechtel on Jul 21, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Camping and COVID-19 - Guidelines
Details
Please go to the Squamish Access Society website for up-to-date access information. Also join their Facebook page, or follow them on Instagram, and please consider joining or donating to support the climbing you love in Squamish.
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
CAMPING
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
COVID-19 - Follow BC travel and medical guidelines. The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to Provincial Travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and Health Authority directions for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
Parks Closures and Day Use Permits Parks were closed in 2020 then a day use permit system was instituted in some places. Please check Parks and Rec Site Closures for up-to-date information. Specifically, for the Stawamus Chief before using to ascend or descend for climbing.
CAMPING
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary, This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· the whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· the Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· the dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping.
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Access Issue: 2020 Falcon Closures Lifted
Details
Falcon Closures on the upper Apron have been lifted. Use caution in the vicinity of Memorial Crack and areas in and around the Apron. If you encounter a falcon, keep your distance. If the birds appear agitated, leave the area as soon as possible.
Description
The start of this climb shares the same two pitches as St. Vitus Dance.
Pitch 1. A committing move gets you off the ground. Work your way up pulling on roots and using large cracks. Larger cams are a good idea for the last section of this pitch if you're not that comfortable with crack climbing yet. 5.8(?)
Pitch 2. Step out left and onto the face, using multiple cracks to work your way up to a bolted anchor on the right. 5.7(?)
Pitch 3. Step back out onto the face an work your way around a tree and up two stellar cracks that run side by side. When nearing the the end of the cracks, start looking left for the thin finger crack and small ledge just below. This is where you want to set up your belay. A second option is to set up the belay on the parallel cracks just to the right of the finger crack and save your small gear for pitch 4. 5.6(?)
Pitch 4. Fun and easy finger crack that takes gear really good. Follow this crack up and end up on a ramp on the left and build your anchor here. 5.8
Pitch 5. Low angle slab. Start off the ramp going up and right. Work your way to a crack to plug some gear, then head straight up to the trees. People tend to want to head right for some reason. Don't do that. 5-
Descent:
Scramble to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down, or rappel from the tree'd ledge before Memorial Ledge. Find the brown rap anchors on the climbers left side of the ledge between the two down slab trees.
R1: Large chain from bolts (15m)
R2: Chain anchor station part way down the wall on a ledge (35m)
R2.5: If have a 60, there is a single bolt with a locker to the right for the remaining 5m
R3: Large chain anchor off tree (28m)
R4: Bolted anchor (25m)
Pitch 1. A committing move gets you off the ground. Work your way up pulling on roots and using large cracks. Larger cams are a good idea for the last section of this pitch if you're not that comfortable with crack climbing yet. 5.8(?)
Pitch 2. Step out left and onto the face, using multiple cracks to work your way up to a bolted anchor on the right. 5.7(?)
Pitch 3. Step back out onto the face an work your way around a tree and up two stellar cracks that run side by side. When nearing the the end of the cracks, start looking left for the thin finger crack and small ledge just below. This is where you want to set up your belay. A second option is to set up the belay on the parallel cracks just to the right of the finger crack and save your small gear for pitch 4. 5.6(?)
Pitch 4. Fun and easy finger crack that takes gear really good. Follow this crack up and end up on a ramp on the left and build your anchor here. 5.8
Pitch 5. Low angle slab. Start off the ramp going up and right. Work your way to a crack to plug some gear, then head straight up to the trees. People tend to want to head right for some reason. Don't do that. 5-
Descent:
Scramble to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down, or rappel from the tree'd ledge before Memorial Ledge. Find the brown rap anchors on the climbers left side of the ledge between the two down slab trees.
R1: Large chain from bolts (15m)
R2: Chain anchor station part way down the wall on a ledge (35m)
R2.5: If have a 60, there is a single bolt with a locker to the right for the remaining 5m
R3: Large chain anchor off tree (28m)
R4: Bolted anchor (25m)
Photos
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