Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Fred Beckey, D. Beckstead, 1966
Page Views: 32,564 total · 244/month
Shared By: sibylle Hechtel on Jul 21, 2009 with improvements by Joshua Thompson
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


358 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: COVID-19 - Guidelines Details

Description

The start of this climb shares the same two pitches as St. Vitus Dance.

Pitch 1. A committing move gets you off the ground.  Work your way up pulling on roots and using large cracks.  Larger cams are a good idea for the last section of this pitch if you're not that comfortable with crack climbing yet.  5.8(?)

Pitch 2.  Step out left and onto the face, using multiple cracks to work your way up to a bolted anchor on the right. 5.7(?)

Pitch 3. Step back out onto the face an work your way around a tree and up two stellar cracks that run side by side.  When nearing the the end of the cracks, start looking left for the thin finger crack and small ledge just below.  This is where you want to set up your belay.  A second option is to set up the belay on the parallel cracks just to the right of the finger crack and save your small gear for pitch 4. 5.6(?)

Pitch 4.  Fun and easy finger crack that takes gear really good.  Follow this crack up and end up on a ramp on the left and build your anchor here. 5.8

Pitch 5. Low angle slab. Start off the ramp going up and right.  Work your way to a crack to plug some gear, then head straight up to the trees.  People tend to want to head right for some reason. Don't do that. 5-

Descent:
Scramble to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down, or rappel from the tree'd ledge before Memorial Ledge. Find the brown rap anchors on the climbers left side of the ledge between the two down slab trees.
R1: Large chain from bolts (15m)
R2: Chain anchor station part way down the wall on a ledge (35m)
R2.5: If have a 60, there is a single bolt with a locker to the right for the remaining 5m
R3: Large chain anchor off tree (28m)
R4: Bolted anchor (25m)

Location

This climb starts on Baseline Ledge on the north Buttress of the Apron.

Protection

Gear to 4", doubles for trad anchors at belays.

Photos