Calculus Crack
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
FA: | Fred Beckey, D. Beckstead, 1966 |
Page Views: | 45,262 total · 275/month |
Shared By: | sibylle Hechtel on Jul 21, 2009 · Updates |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·NORTH WALL CLOSURE
A new rock fall occurred Sept. 20th on the Zodiac Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: all routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Angels Crest on the Lower Zodiac Wall.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
DARK SIDE BOULDERING CLOSURE
The debris field from the Sept. 20th rock fall reached the Dark Side bouldering area, and this area is now closed.
GRAND WALL CLOSURE
The base of the Grand Wall (between Sense of Urgency and Commando Crack) and all trails leading to these areas. This includes climbing routes such as Java Jive, Coyote, Flex Capacitor, Commando Crack, Movin’ to Montana, Knacker Cracker, Teenage Wasteland, Exasperator, Peasant’s Route, War of the Raptors, Cruel Shoes, The Flake, Apron Strings, Sunday Whites, and Sense of Urgency.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE
All Bouldering areas between but not including Cacademon Boulder and Titanic North have also been closed. This area includes: Gilligan’s Island, Mantel Madness, Undertow, Lipsmack, Superfly, Octagon, Black Dyke, Viper, Thighmaster, and Survivor.
Boudlering Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE
A very large rockfall recently occurred where the Western Dihedrals meet the Grand Wall. The following routes in this area are now closed: Deadend Dihedral, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.
Climbing Route Closure Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
SLHANAY CLOSURE
All routes between and including Dogzilla and The White Feather.
Slhanay Closure Area Map: bcparks.ca/explore/parkpgs/…
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
These are Kris Wild's comments after doing a preliminary inspection of the area and highlighting the new crack/flake with some chalk:
"We need to recommend that no one get on the top two pitches of Banana Peel. It would be very hard for a 5.7 climber to not touch this thing safely at all while climbing the pitch.
The big triangular block sitting on top of it is definitely suspended by this flake, and would slide on its own if the flake broke free."
Kris put up a temporary sign in the parking lot, but clearly more signage is needed.
Preliminary recommendations by Anders Ourom:
1. Don't go anywhere near the last pitch of Banana Peel. If you do, don't touch anything. (Better yet, don't climb anything from Diedre to Slab Alley, or if you really must, get the hell off the first pitches as soon as you can.)
2. If you insist on climbing Banana Peel anyway, avoid the last two pitches and branch off to the last two pitches of Sparrow or Slab Alley instead. Both somewhat harder.
3. Be very aware that if the flake and block fall, the rocks, and debris from secondary falls, could end up anywhere on the Apron to the right of Diedre. The Apron is cone-shaped, and the geometry and angle is such that rocks could go anywhere there. Lower pitches seem more threatened.
Granitic rock weighs 2,600 - 2,800 kilos/cubic metres, and I'd guess that the volume there is several cubic metres.
Description
The start of this climb shares the same two pitches as St. Vitus Dance.
Pitch 1. A committing move gets you off the ground. Work your way up pulling on roots and using large cracks. Larger cams are a good idea for the last section of this pitch if you're not that comfortable with crack climbing yet. 5.8(?)
Pitch 2. Step out a few feet left of the tree stump and onto the face, using multiple cracks and twin finger cracks to work your way up to a bolted anchor on the right. 5.7(?)
Pitch 3. Step back out onto the face an work your way around a tree and up two stellar cracks that run side by side. When nearing the the end of the cracks, start looking left for the thin finger crack and small ledge just below. This is where you want to set up your belay. A second option is to set up the belay on the parallel cracks just to the right of the finger crack and save your small gear for pitch 4. 5.6(?)
Pitch 4. Fun and easy finger crack that takes gear really good. Follow this crack up and end up on a ramp on the left and build your anchor here. 5.8
Pitch 5. Low angle slab. Start off the ramp going up and right. Work your way to a crack to plug some gear, then head straight up to the trees. People tend to want to head right for some reason. Don't do that. 5-
Descent:
Scramble to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down, or rappel from the tree'd ledge before Memorial Ledge. Find the brown rap anchors on the climbers left side of the ledge between the two down slab trees.
R1: Large chain from bolts (15m)
R2: Chain anchor station part way down the wall on a ledge (35m)
R2.5: If have a 60, there is a single bolt with a locker to the right for the remaining 5m
R3: Large chain anchor off tree (28m)
R4: Bolted anchor (25m)
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