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Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Fred Beckey, D. Beckstead, 1966
Page Views: 18,079 total, 178/month
Shared By: sibylle on Jul 21, 2009 with updates
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description

From Baseline Ledge, head left to a bolted belay beneath cracks.
Pitch 1. Climb up crack and step left to belay.
P. 2. follow the crack and groove.
3. climb up and right on easy terrain.

Location

This climb starts on Baseline Ledge on the north Buttress of the Apron.

Protection

Gear belays, nuts and cams, runners for the climbing to Baseline Ledge.
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.8+
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.8+
This past weekend, we got in line for the St. Vitus start around 8:30am. We knew there was a group on the route already, one group headed up the same start, and other groups were going up the direct start. We eventually found ourselves somewhere near the front of nine groups (all pairs thankfully). We "passed" the group ahead of us on the top-out slabs. My partner arrived at 2:30pm. We walked off instead of rapping and met the group in front of us who did at the parking lot. Six hours (plus walk-off) for two-and-a-half quality pitches isn't a good ratio, in my opinion. Unless you really don't mind waiting for hours to get in a few classic easy pitches, I'd recommend going cragging at the Bluffs or the Malamute or the Papoose. Weekend lines for Skywalker and Diedre are probably even worse. Sep 28, 2017
Rappel beta: The rap anchor is on the slab to climber's left (before the top-out ledge with trees) -- see photo. The first rap is really short. You may be tempted to skip this and go straight to the next ledge but a 70m won't reach! All 4 raps were straightforward and actually fun. Clean pulls. At the bottom, it's a quick hike down a creek bed that branches off onto a trail. The trail goes back along Calculus Direct and then the start of St Vitus' Dance. Sep 23, 2017
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
IMHO, there's no reason not to use the Direct start to this route as it is the start of the crack system that forms Calculus crack and is the logical start to the route. It's also way more fun than the Vitus start.

With a 70m line, you can make the bolts at the top of 2 from the ground, which is nice. Jul 14, 2017
Michael Nill
Seattle, WA
  5.8
Michael Nill   Seattle, WA
  5.8
The gear belay below the finger crack takes nuts really well, no need for triples. Doubles of 0.4-0.5 were nice for the finger crack with the belay, nuts worked fine too. The PG13 rating is lies.

I strongly recommend the rappel descent, super fast with 4 raps. We climbed with a 70, I think a 60 could make it easily with a little rope stretch, read the book. Sep 12, 2016
Andrew Mayer
Driggs, ID
  5.8
Andrew Mayer   Driggs, ID
  5.8
Great route! Highly recommend linking the 5.8 finger crack with the easier pitch above all the way to the bolts out right on the slab. Easily done with a 70m rope and double rack and makes for a long money pitch.

Walkoff beta (if not continuing up the buttress) - from the trees, scramble up & left via a fixed line to gain a prominent right-angling 4th class gully system. scramble up this (passing memorial ledge on your left) to its terminus. follow the well traveled path to the right till it peters out above some slab. complete an exposed traverse trending slightly down with a jug rail for your hands and a short section of thin feet (those squeamish about exposure may want rock shoes on for this). a short remaining traverse/downclimb will put you on broadway ledge immediately above the top of Diedre. continue south along the trail/gully system to reach the nice trail in the trees that will eventually deposit you on the Apron Connector trail south of the Apron parking lot.

Approx. 90min - 2 hrs depending on your pace. enjoy!
Aug 16, 2016
Could easily use 3-4 each of 0.5 and 0.75 camalots (especially if forced by traffic to belay at suboptimal locations) Aug 7, 2016
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.8
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.8
This can make a very fast route to the top of the Apron with a few linked pitches and a healthy number of slings:

P1: (From the ground) Link the root-pulling jungle pitches to the bolted anchors on the left below Calculus proper. Place as little as possible and extend everything with runners. Rope stretcher - advise your belayer to stand as high as possible on the pedestal when running low on rope. (5.8 ~70m)

P2: Romp up through easy climbing and build a gear belay just below the finger crack (5.6 ~40m)

P3: Link the next 2 pitches through the finger crack (stiff 5.8) to easier and wider climbing. Keep going past the gear belay spot and duck right after 55m along the easy slab towards the bolted anchor. Extend everything after the finger cracks. (5.8 ~68m)

P4: Easy padding and jamming to the trees (Low 5th ~45m)

I found doubles to #3 was fine for linking what I've listed as pitch 3. May 22, 2016
Elizabeth Leddy  
  5.8
I'm also -1 on saying this is PG13. very well protected.

This route was great for a post rain day. Minus the first 2 pitches, the rest dry quickly. The second pitch was very wet the day after a rain and there was definitely some cussing happening but it was fine. Just wear long pants to wipe your feet off on. You know you are at the start of the route because you are literally climbing the first pitch through trees and dirt. There is a fixed line to the right.

You can string this together with Elaines crack (5.10a) and then memorial crack (5.9) for 8 pitches of wooohoo! that tops out at the top of the buttress. 5 rappels (not 4 like the book says) to get off or hike off. The 2nd rappel is a rope stretcher so don't forget to tie knots. The rappels go near the base of the climb so you can leave your pack. Jul 1, 2013
Matt Hoffmann
Squamish
  5.8
Matt Hoffmann   Squamish
  5.8
Mega classic for the grade. Solid jams the whole way and fun fun fun. Oct 12, 2012
Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Well protected, not PG13. If you notice bad wind in the parking lot you will be in for an adventure on this route. After climbing a very windy 190 feet of 5.6 wide crack you step left into an amazing finger crack that is truly on the edge of the apron. The wind RIPS through this section of the climb pulling helmets off, chalk bags sideways, the rope, and of course you. That being said, it's quite the windy adventure if you get it on a day like that! Aug 16, 2012
EMT
EMT  
From P 3 belay (little ledge) through the awesome fingers/hands long moderate section you can stretch a 60m to a nice comfy ledge, but save a #1 & 2 C4 for the belay.

Got lost on 2nd jungleering pitch but just keept going up and to the left. Aug 12, 2012
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.8
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.8
Really fun climbing. Don't know where the PG13 rating could possibly be warranted. Even the upper, 5.0 slab had a handcrack option.

I pitched this out as follows (after getting to Baseline Ledge, which is one or two pitches of 5.7 scramble but fun).

P1: Romped up the parallel cracks (5.6), then step left to a finger-sized crack for gear belay.

P2: Climbed the finger crack to some other harder moves as the crack slowly widens to thin-hands. (5.8, then easier again.) Angle kicks back and there's a great place for a thin-hand to hand gear belay on a low-angle ramp on a left-facing corner. Good place to stay in the shade.

P3: Easy climbing again, rings to hands to a bolted belay off right. (5.7, but mostly easy.)

P4: 5.0 walk with a fun hand crack to the trees.

Tried to link the last two pitches with a 70m but came up short and downclimbed the crack. Kevin McClane pitched this out in 3 pitches in his guide, is it possible to go straight from the finger-crack to the bolted anchor with or without a 70m? Aug 5, 2012
Dan Petty
Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.8-
Dan Petty   Wheat Ridge, CO
  5.8-
Very well protected. Oct 1, 2011