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Routes in The Apron
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A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches |
| FA: | Fred Beckey, D. Beckstead, 1966 |
| Page Views: | 24,257 total · 206/month |
| Shared By: | sibylle Hechtel on Jul 21, 2009 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Kate Lynn |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Illegal Camping
Details
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
Description
The start of this climb shares the same two pitches as St. Vitus Dance.
Pitch 1. A committing move gets you off the ground. Work your way up pulling on roots and using large cracks. Larger cams are a good idea for the last section of this pitch if you're not that comfortable with crack climbing yet. 5.8(?)
Pitch 2. Step out left and onto the face, using multiple cracks to work your way up to a bolted anchor on the right. 5.7(?)
Pitch 3. Step back out onto the face an work your way around a tree and up two stellar cracks that run side by side. When nearing the the end of the cracks, start looking left for the thin finger crack and small ledge just below. This is where you want to set up your belay. A second option is to set up the belay on the parallel cracks just to the right of the finger crack and save your small gear for pitch 4. 5.6(?)
Pitch 4. Fun and easy finger crack that takes gear really good. Follow this crack up and end up on a ramp on the left and build your anchor here. 5.8
Pitch 5. Low angle slab. Start off the ramp going up and right. Work your way to a crack to plug some gear, then head straight up to the trees. People tend to want to head right for some reason. Don't do that. 5-
Pitch 1. A committing move gets you off the ground. Work your way up pulling on roots and using large cracks. Larger cams are a good idea for the last section of this pitch if you're not that comfortable with crack climbing yet. 5.8(?)
Pitch 2. Step out left and onto the face, using multiple cracks to work your way up to a bolted anchor on the right. 5.7(?)
Pitch 3. Step back out onto the face an work your way around a tree and up two stellar cracks that run side by side. When nearing the the end of the cracks, start looking left for the thin finger crack and small ledge just below. This is where you want to set up your belay. A second option is to set up the belay on the parallel cracks just to the right of the finger crack and save your small gear for pitch 4. 5.6(?)
Pitch 4. Fun and easy finger crack that takes gear really good. Follow this crack up and end up on a ramp on the left and build your anchor here. 5.8
Pitch 5. Low angle slab. Start off the ramp going up and right. Work your way to a crack to plug some gear, then head straight up to the trees. People tend to want to head right for some reason. Don't do that. 5-
Wheat Ridge, CO
Vancouver, BC
I pitched this out as follows (after getting to Baseline Ledge, which is one or two pitches of 5.7 scramble but fun).
P1: Romped up the parallel cracks (5.6), then step left to a finger-sized crack for gear belay.
P2: Climbed the finger crack to some other harder moves as the crack slowly widens to thin-hands. (5.8, then easier again.) Angle kicks back and there's a great place for a thin-hand to hand gear belay on a low-angle ramp on a left-facing corner. Good place to stay in the shade.
P3: Easy climbing again, rings to hands to a bolted belay off right. (5.7, but mostly easy.)
P4: 5.0 walk with a fun hand crack to the trees.
Tried to link the last two pitches with a 70m but came up short and downclimbed the crack. Kevin McClane pitched this out in 3 pitches in his guide, is it possible to go straight from the finger-crack to the bolted anchor with or without a 70m? Aug 5, 2012
Got lost on 2nd jungleering pitch but just keept going up and to the left. Aug 12, 2012
Portland, Oregon
Squamish
This route was great for a post rain day. Minus the first 2 pitches, the rest dry quickly. The second pitch was very wet the day after a rain and there was definitely some cussing happening but it was fine. Just wear long pants to wipe your feet off on. You know you are at the start of the route because you are literally climbing the first pitch through trees and dirt. There is a fixed line to the right.
You can string this together with Elaines crack (5.10a) and then memorial crack (5.9) for 8 pitches of wooohoo! that tops out at the top of the buttress. 5 rappels (not 4 like the book says) to get off or hike off. The 2nd rappel is a rope stretcher so don't forget to tie knots. The rappels go near the base of the climb so you can leave your pack. Jul 1, 2013
Vancouver, BC
P1: (From the ground) Link the root-pulling jungle pitches to the bolted anchors on the left below Calculus proper. Place as little as possible and extend everything with runners. Rope stretcher - advise your belayer to stand as high as possible on the pedestal when running low on rope. (5.8 ~70m)
P2: Romp up through easy climbing and build a gear belay just below the finger crack (5.6 ~40m)
P3: Link the next 2 pitches through the finger crack (stiff 5.8) to easier and wider climbing. Keep going past the gear belay spot and duck right after 55m along the easy slab towards the bolted anchor. Extend everything after the finger cracks. (5.8 ~68m)
P4: Easy padding and jamming to the trees (Low 5th ~45m)
I found doubles to #3 was fine for linking what I've listed as pitch 3. May 22, 2016
Seattle, WA
Driggs, ID
Walkoff beta (if not continuing up the buttress) - from the trees, scramble up & left via a fixed line to gain a prominent right-angling 4th class gully system. scramble up this (passing memorial ledge on your left) to its terminus. follow the well traveled path to the right till it peters out above some slab. complete an exposed traverse trending slightly down with a jug rail for your hands and a short section of thin feet (those squeamish about exposure may want rock shoes on for this). a short remaining traverse/downclimb will put you on broadway ledge immediately above the top of Diedre. continue south along the trail/gully system to reach the nice trail in the trees that will eventually deposit you on the Apron Connector trail south of the Apron parking lot.
Approx. 90min - 2 hrs depending on your pace. enjoy!
Aug 16, 2016
Seattle, WA
I strongly recommend the rappel descent, super fast with 4 raps. We climbed with a 70, I think a 60 could make it easily with a little rope stretch, read the book. Sep 12, 2016
Las Vegas, NV
With a 70m line, you can make the bolts at the top of 2 from the ground, which is nice. Jul 14, 2017
Boulder, CO
Portland, OR
Vancouver, BC