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Calculus Crack
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.2 from 657
votes
Routes in North Apron
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Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eleven Words for Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Form S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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July Column Left, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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July Column Right, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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St. Bernard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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St. Vitus' Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Terror, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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That Dog Don't Hunt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.68766, -123.14493 |
| FA: | Fred Beckey, D. Beckstead, 1966 |
| Page Views: | 51,284 total · 251/month |
| Shared By: | sibylle Hechtel on Jul 21, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
The start of this climb shares the same two pitches as St. Vitus Dance.
Pitch 1. A committing move gets you off the ground. Work your way up pulling on roots and using large cracks. Larger cams are a good idea for the last section of this pitch if you're not that comfortable with crack climbing yet. Scramble up the ledges until you see the next crack and belay from the tree (not tree stump) below it. 5.7
Pitch 2. Move the belay and step out a few feet left of the tree stump and onto the face, using multiple cracks and twin finger cracks to work your way up to a bolted anchor on the left 5.8
Pitch 3. Step back out onto the face and work your way around a tree and up two stellar cracks that run side by side. When nearing the end of the cracks, start looking left for the thin finger crack and small ledge just below. This is where you want to set up your belay. A second option is to set up the belay on the parallel cracks just to the right of the finger crack and save your small gear for pitch 4. 5.6
Pitch 4. Fun finger crack that takes gear really good. Follow this crack up and end up on a ramp on the left and build your anchor here. 5.8
Pitch 5. Continue up the crack and traverse right to a bolt belay on upper slabs. 5.7
Pitchj 6. Low angle slab. Go up and right on to a short crack, and head to the trees. Belay from a tree. 5.0
Descent:
Scramble to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down, or rappel from the tree'd ledge before Memorial Ledge. Find the brown rap anchors on the climbers left side of the ledge between the two down slab trees.
R1: Large chain from bolts (15m)
R2: Chain anchor station part way down the wall on a ledge (35m)
R2.5: If have a 60, there is a single bolt with a locker to the right for the remaining 5m
R3: Large chain anchor off tree (28m)
R4: Bolted anchor (25m)
Photos
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