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Routes in The Apron

A Question of Balance S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Banana Peel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Boomstick Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bottom Line, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Crossing, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dances with Pigs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dancing in the Light T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diedre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dream Symphony T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Edge of Anxiety T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Form S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Granville Street T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
One Scoop with Delicious Dimples T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Over The Rainbow T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pineapple Peel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rambles T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Slab Alley T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sparrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Teetering on the Brink of Madness S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unfinished Symphony T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
White Lightning T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 9 pitches
FA: Kris Wild & Paul Sobchak 2014
Page Views: 4,401 total · 303/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Aug 7, 2017
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

New beginner-friendly 5.9 that is a logical progression from Skywalker. Short, well-protected pitches with short cruxes and all bolted anchors. North-facing and great for hot days - you can make it to the top of the Apron and barely see the sun at all.

(Pitch lengths are all estimated)

P1 (5.9, ~10m, 2 bolts) Start up a fixed line to a small platform with a bolt just above your head. Clip it and pull onto the face. Kind of odd and awkward climbing, clip another bolt and you're done.
There is a 10a direct start that looks thin and adds another 10m or so of climbing to this pitch by avoiding the fixed line and climbing directly up to the first bolt.

P2 (5.9, ~35m) Easy climbing to a short roof below a flake, then wider climbing at a low angle - hands, fists and a few stacks. You could place a #5 if you were so inclined, but we found a single #3 and single #4 were fine for this pitch.

P3 (5.7, ~35m) Climbs fast, similar to P5 of Calculus Crack in nature.

P4 (5.7, ~40m) Beautiful, clean climbing. You can choose to climb the hands splitter or the hands corner. Easy until the top, where it steepens slightly.

P5 (5.easy, ~25m) Easy climbing, again choose between a face crack or a corner crack.

P6 (5.7, ~35m) Layback up a handcrack to an interesting set of roof moves, traversing underneath a roof. Fun.

P7 (5.8, ~45m, 4 bolts) Finesse up a thin left-leaning crack. Slightly awkward to place gear - bolts help protect you through the thin sections. This pitch will take you to the top of Calculus & St. Vitus - you can sling a tree to belay, or continue up to the belay bolts before the gulley next to Karen's Math that takes you to the rest of Broadway Ledge.

If you want you can walk off at this point, or rappel Bad Pants Party into the South Gulley.

P8 - (5.7) Continue up easy, low angle crack climbing through some interesting features.

P9 - (5.8) Up a finger crack, then continue more vertically through some challenging ground, avoiding Memorial Crack. I found this pitch more challenging than the first two. Finish on bolt anchors on the top of a boulder (same boulder that marks the end of Memorial Crack, but the LTNS anchors are climber's left.

You finish above Memorial Crack and Rock on - pick up a trail if you want to continue up the chief, or walk south to find the tree to rappel back down to Broadway Ledge.

Several of these pitches could be logically linked, we linked P3 & P4 (too short for a 70m, we had to belay at a tree 5m below the anchors), P5 & P6, and P8 & P9. If I were to do it again I'd link P1 & P2, P4 and P5, P6 and P7, P8 & P9.

More info here: squamishclimbingmagazine.ca…

Location

Route begins in between Start from Scratch (10c, to the left) and Calculus Direct (5.9, to the right). Follow the fixed line and belay below a bolt that can be reached from the ground.

Protection

We found doubles to a #2 Camalot, single #3 and single #4 were sufficient, but if you're uncomfortable with larger sizes I might recommend taking an extra #3.
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Another great new addition to the Apron. The P2 hand crack and traverse on the topo's P6 are the definite standout pitches. I'd call P2 5.9 vs the topo's 5.8. We went all the way to the top, and while P8 is nothing special, the final pitch is pretty cool. Aug 9, 2017
Ryan Lynne
  5.8
Ryan Lynne  
  5.8
This is a great new moderate route up the apron that ends right at the top of Memorial Crack. It's hands down the new quickest way up to the Squamish Buttress and it is an excellent route for learning. It is also a great candidate for some simul-climbing and speed ascents.

The crux of the route is near the top of Pitch #2 where it gets a pretty wide. However, there are lots of side pulls and edges that can be found within the big crack. We found a single #3 and #4 C4 to be sufficient for this pitch.

We easily linked pitches 2-3, 4-5, 6-7, and 8-9 with a 70 meter rope and no shenanigans. Aug 18, 2017
KrisW
Squamish BC
 
KrisW   Squamish BC
 
Folks unaccustomed to a bit of wider crack climbing will find p2 the crux, if you've done a bunch of jamming, it shouldn't give you any problems. Pushing a #4 ahead of you for a psychological top rope will help if you don't mind dealing with two strands of rope all around your feet.

P7 is gaining a reputation as the "Breakup Pitch". Be very contentious of how you protect it for a second who may not be as confident as you. It protects very well, but it's not intuitive , as it feels easy to move fast after the balacy moves on the pitch. This is EXACTLY where your timid partner needs to be taken care of. Be a good partner. Aug 28, 2017
This is a very pleasant addition to the Apron. Kudos for the monumental effort involved in cleaning it! On hot summer days, this is likely to become a go-to route and help alleviate some pressure and crowding from Rock On.

Gear recommendations are spot-on and I would agree that a #3 and a #4 are sufficient for the 2nd pitch, providing you have some wider crack experience. Otherwise, you may feel a little more comfortable bringing another #4 or a #5.

A great climb and very much worth doing. And dare I say, perhaps even more enjoyable and varied than the neighboring Calculus Crack... May 30, 2018
Peter Gonda  
 
I thought this route was the best way up the Apron I have done yet! Super fun and fast climbing.

We accidentally did the 10c start because it looked much cleaner and more obvious then the .9. The topo is very clear, we just didn't read it. Jul 10, 2018
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
Bring some smaller cams (.1/.2 x4, black/blue alien) for the last pitch finger crack. I only had a green alien on me and wasn't happy with nut placements. I ended up scrambling up the dirt gully to the left with zero pro instead and that sucked.

Stellar route, great variety. Love the traverse pitches. Wide bits are good. Remember to put in a directional for your second after the last bolt or belay from a tree instead of going up to the bolts by karens math. Aug 6, 2018
natsdad  
This is a great, varied route. Many thanks to Kris!

I've climbed this twice: once by the 5.9 start and the second time via the 5.10a start. Both are good. The 5.10a start takes tiny and small gear, but does protect reasonably. Definitely bring a #4 for the second pitch. It is burly for 5.9. The second time climbing this I took the right hand variations on the end of pitch 3 and start (all?) of pitch 4 and found this better aesthetically.

Pitch 9 is a great pitch, perhaps my favorite. Gear placement and route-finding is a bit more thoughtful on this pitch. Top two pitches (pitches 8 & 9) can be added to any climb on the north apron, if you have time. Aug 16, 2018

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