Long Time No See

New beginner-friendly 5.9 starting just to the left of Calculus Direct. Short, well-protected pitches with short cruxes and all bolted anchors. North-facing and great for hot days - you can make it to the top of the Apron and barely see the sun at all.

(Pitch lengths are all estimated)

P1 (5.9, ~10m, 2 bolts) Start up a fixed line to a small platform with a bolt just above your head. Clip it and pull onto the face. Kind of odd and awkward climbing, clip another bolt and you're done.

There is a 10a direct start that looks thin and adds another 10m or so of climbing to this pitch by avoiding the fixed line and climbing directly up to the first bolt.

P2 (5.9, ~35m) Easy climbing to a short roof below a flake, then wider climbing at a low angle - hands, fists and a few stacks. You could place a #5 if you were so inclined, but we found a single #3 and single #4 were fine for this pitch.

P3 (5.7, ~35m) Climbs fast, similar to P5 of Calculus Crack in nature.

P4 (5.7, ~40m) Beautiful, clean climbing. You can choose to climb the hands splitter or the hands corner. Easy until the top, where it steepens slightly.

P5 (5.easy, ~25m) Easy climbing, again choose between a face crack or a corner crack.

P6 (5.7, ~35m) Layback up a handcrack to an interesting set of roof moves, traversing underneath a roof. Fun.

P7 (5.8, ~45m, 4 bolts) Finesse up a thin left-leaning crack. Slightly awkward to place gear - bolts help protect you through the thin sections. This pitch will take you to the top of Calculus & St. Vitus - you can sling a tree to belay, or continue up to the belay bolts before the gulley next to Karen's Math that takes you to the rest of Broadway Ledge.

If you want you can walk off at this point, or rappel Bad Pants Party into the South Gulley.

P8 - (5.7) Continue up easy, low angle crack climbing through some interesting features.

P9 - (5.8) Up a finger crack, then continue more vertically through some challenging ground, avoiding Memorial Crack. I found this pitch more challenging than the first two. Finish on bolt anchors on the top of a boulder (same boulder that marks the end of Memorial Crack, but the LTNS anchors are climber's left.

Several of these pitches could be logically linked, we linked P3 & P4 (too short for a 70m, we had to belay at a tree 5m below the anchors), P5 & P6, and P8 & P9. If I were to do it again I'd link P1 & P2, P4 and P5, P6 and P7, P8 & P9.

More info here: squamishclimbingmagazine.ca…

Rappel Descent:

If rapping from pitch 9:

R1: Climb over the belay rock to the ledge, walk to climbers right on the slab just outside the trees.  There's a tree with a bunch of tat that works for a 70.  (Not sure if it works for a 60, please update if you know.  There's also a set of chains just over the edge that might be needed for a 60.)  Rap puts you on Broadway ledge, a big ledge full of trees about level with and climber's right of memorial ledge.  From here the walkoff is on climber's right and further rappels on climber's left.

R2: Walk to climbers left through a bit of dirt to some chains. Rappel down to the same ledge as the end of P7. Instructions for the rest of the rappel below.

If rapping from pitch 7 ledge (this would be raps 3-6 if coming from P9):

R1: The rap anchors are further down the slab on climber's left, by two little trees.  Large chain from bolts (15m)

R2: Chain anchor station part way down the wall on a ledge (35m)

R2.5: If have a 60, there is a single bolt with a locker to the right for the remaining 5m

R3: Large chain anchor off tree (28m)

R4: Bolted anchor (25m)

Walkoff Descent:

If coming from the pitch 9 ledge complete the first rap to get to Broadway ledge

If coming from the pitch 7 ledge, scramble up & left via a fixed line to gain a prominent right-angling 4th class gully system. scramble up this (passing memorial ledge on your left) to its terminus, you're on Broadway ledge.

On Broadway ledge, follow the well traveled path to the right till it peters out above some slab.  Complete an exposed traverse trending slightly down with a jug rail for your hands and a short section of thin feet (those squeamish about exposure may want rock shoes on for this).  A short remaining traverse/downclimb will put you above the top of Diedre.  Continue south along the trail/gully system to reach the nice trail in the trees that will eventually deposit you on the Apron Connector trail south of the Apron parking lot.  Walkoff takes 1h30-2h.