Type: Trad, 9 pitches
FA: Kris Wild & Paul Sobchak 2014
Page Views: 11,961 total · 296/month
Shared By: Mark Roberts on Aug 7, 2017 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route


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Access Issue: COVID-19 - Guidelines Details
Access Issue: 2020 Falcon Closures Lifted Details

Description

New beginner-friendly 5.9 starting just to the left of Calculus Direct. Short, well-protected pitches with short cruxes and all bolted anchors. North-facing and great for hot days - you can make it to the top of the Apron and barely see the sun at all.

(Pitch lengths are all estimated)

P1 (5.9, ~10m, 2 bolts) Start up a fixed line to a small platform with a bolt just above your head. Clip it and pull onto the face. Kind of odd and awkward climbing, clip another bolt and you're done.
There is a 10a direct start that looks thin and adds another 10m or so of climbing to this pitch by avoiding the fixed line and climbing directly up to the first bolt.

P2 (5.9, ~35m) Easy climbing to a short roof below a flake, then wider climbing at a low angle - hands, fists and a few stacks. You could place a #5 if you were so inclined, but we found a single #3 and single #4 were fine for this pitch.

P3 (5.7, ~35m) Climbs fast, similar to P5 of Calculus Crack in nature.

P4 (5.7, ~40m) Beautiful, clean climbing. You can choose to climb the hands splitter or the hands corner. Easy until the top, where it steepens slightly.

P5 (5.easy, ~25m) Easy climbing, again choose between a face crack or a corner crack.

P6 (5.7, ~35m) Layback up a handcrack to an interesting set of roof moves, traversing underneath a roof. Fun.

P7 (5.8, ~45m, 4 bolts) Finesse up a thin left-leaning crack. Slightly awkward to place gear - bolts help protect you through the thin sections. This pitch will take you to the top of Calculus & St. Vitus - you can sling a tree to belay, or continue up to the belay bolts before the gulley next to Karen's Math that takes you to the rest of Broadway Ledge.

If you want you can walk off at this point, or rappel Bad Pants Party into the South Gulley.

P8 - (5.7) Continue up easy, low angle crack climbing through some interesting features.

P9 - (5.8) Up a finger crack, then continue more vertically through some challenging ground, avoiding Memorial Crack. I found this pitch more challenging than the first two. Finish on bolt anchors on the top of a boulder (same boulder that marks the end of Memorial Crack, but the LTNS anchors are climber's left.

Several of these pitches could be logically linked, we linked P3 & P4 (too short for a 70m, we had to belay at a tree 5m below the anchors), P5 & P6, and P8 & P9. If I were to do it again I'd link P1 & P2, P4 and P5, P6 and P7, P8 & P9.

More info here: squamishclimbingmagazine.ca…

Descent:
Scramble to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down, or rappel from the tree'd ledge before Memorial Ledge. Find the brown rap anchors on the climbers left side of the ledge between the two down slab trees.
R1: Large chain from bolts (15m)
R2: Chain anchor station part way down the wall on a ledge (35m)
R2.5: If have a 60, there is a single bolt with a locker to the right for the remaining 5m
R3: Large chain anchor off tree (28m)
R4: Bolted anchor (25m)

Location

Route begins in between Start from Scratch (10c, to the left) and Calculus Direct (5.9, to the right). Follow the fixed line and belay below a bolt that can be reached from the ground.

Protection

We found doubles to a #2 Camalot, single #3 and single #4 were sufficient, but if you're uncomfortable with larger sizes I might recommend taking an extra #3.

Photos