Avg: 3.2 from 130 votes
|Type:||Trad, 9 pitches|
|FA:||Kris Wild & Paul Sobchak 2014|
|Page Views:||11,961 total · 296/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Roberts on Aug 7, 2017 · Updates|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
The provincial response to COVID-19 is evolving. Pay special attention to travel restrictions, climbing area closures, and direction for gathering sizes and physical distancing.
squamishaccess.ca for info on local climbing guidelines.
Provincial Travel restrictions
Parks and Rec Site Closures
In addition, there is an access concern about illegal camping:
From the Squamish Access Society website:
District of Squamish provides the following guidance on its website: “Camping is not allowed on District or private property, unless the property is zoned specifically for that purpose. Crown land does not fall under this restriction, however within District of Squamish municipal boundaries, District bylaws do apply to open fires, littering, wildlife attractants, noise, and environmental concerns. District Bylaw Officers can and do attend many unauthorised campsites in order to enforce bylaws.” In correspondence, the District also added that: “Camping on municipal streets or municipal or private parking lots in the District is not permitted under any circumstances.”
From Peter Winter: DO NOT CAMP ALONG THE MAMQUAM FSR BETWEEN THE HIGHWAY AND THE BRIDGE THAT CROSSES STAWAMUS RIVER. THIS MEANS NO VAN CAMPING OR TENTS. THIS AREA IS BC PARKS AND IT IS ILLEGAL FOR YOU TO DO SO. THIS HAS BECOME A VERY SENSITIVE ISSUE. THERE IS FREE CAMPING AT THE CHEK CLIMBING AREA AND NEW, CHEAP CAMPING HERE.
(Pitch lengths are all estimated)
P1 (5.9, ~10m, 2 bolts) Start up a fixed line to a small platform with a bolt just above your head. Clip it and pull onto the face. Kind of odd and awkward climbing, clip another bolt and you're done.
There is a 10a direct start that looks thin and adds another 10m or so of climbing to this pitch by avoiding the fixed line and climbing directly up to the first bolt.
P2 (5.9, ~35m) Easy climbing to a short roof below a flake, then wider climbing at a low angle - hands, fists and a few stacks. You could place a #5 if you were so inclined, but we found a single #3 and single #4 were fine for this pitch.
P3 (5.7, ~35m) Climbs fast, similar to P5 of Calculus Crack in nature.
P4 (5.7, ~40m) Beautiful, clean climbing. You can choose to climb the hands splitter or the hands corner. Easy until the top, where it steepens slightly.
P5 (5.easy, ~25m) Easy climbing, again choose between a face crack or a corner crack.
P6 (5.7, ~35m) Layback up a handcrack to an interesting set of roof moves, traversing underneath a roof. Fun.
P7 (5.8, ~45m, 4 bolts) Finesse up a thin left-leaning crack. Slightly awkward to place gear - bolts help protect you through the thin sections. This pitch will take you to the top of Calculus & St. Vitus - you can sling a tree to belay, or continue up to the belay bolts before the gulley next to Karen's Math that takes you to the rest of Broadway Ledge.
If you want you can walk off at this point, or rappel Bad Pants Party into the South Gulley.
P8 - (5.7) Continue up easy, low angle crack climbing through some interesting features.
P9 - (5.8) Up a finger crack, then continue more vertically through some challenging ground, avoiding Memorial Crack. I found this pitch more challenging than the first two. Finish on bolt anchors on the top of a boulder (same boulder that marks the end of Memorial Crack, but the LTNS anchors are climber's left.
Several of these pitches could be logically linked, we linked P3 & P4 (too short for a 70m, we had to belay at a tree 5m below the anchors), P5 & P6, and P8 & P9. If I were to do it again I'd link P1 & P2, P4 and P5, P6 and P7, P8 & P9.
More info here: squamishclimbingmagazine.ca…
Scramble to the top of Broadway ledge, or climb Memorial Crack (5.9), then walk down, or rappel from the tree'd ledge before Memorial Ledge. Find the brown rap anchors on the climbers left side of the ledge between the two down slab trees.
R1: Large chain from bolts (15m)
R2: Chain anchor station part way down the wall on a ledge (35m)
R2.5: If have a 60, there is a single bolt with a locker to the right for the remaining 5m
R3: Large chain anchor off tree (28m)
R4: Bolted anchor (25m)