Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: F. Beckey, H. Mather, D. Claunch
Page Views: 5,626 total · 55/month
Shared By: J W on Jul 30, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


153 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

A fun route that is mandatory for getting up to the Squamish Buttress or Ultimate Everything for those climbing the left side of the Apron (or you can traverse Broadway for ages to Broomstick Crack).

Ascend the crack and corner to the top.

Location

Located on the north end of Memorial Ledge, start up a crack leading to the dihedral above.

Protection

gear to 4"

Photos

Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon
 
Bryan Hall   Portland, Oregon
 
Gear to 4 inches is overkill. There is plenty of smaller pro and the final move up to the belay is well protected with a #3 if you want it. Aug 16, 2012
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.9
there used to be a small pine tree below the crux flaring groove, seems more sustained now.
Fred insists this is not his first ascent, he said he climbed it years later, but not on his approach to the first ascent of Squamish Buttress. So who did the first ascent? Sep 25, 2015