All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Apron > N Apron

Eleven Words for Rain

Name: Eleven Words for Rain
Rating: 3.1

5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in North Apron

L › R R › L A › Z

	Attack of the Arc’gucci Clones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Calculus Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Calculus Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Crack Slabbeth T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
	Dessert Dike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Diamondback T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Eleven Words for Rain T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Form S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Great Arch, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
	Ha7lh Skwalwen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Karen's Math T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Long Time No See T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Memorial Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Rock On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Rock On Direct (aka Hard On) T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Sad Teens Razor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	South Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	St. Bernard T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	St. Vitus' Dance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	St. Vitus' Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Start From Scratch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Terror, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	That Dog Don't Hunt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Vector T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Voodoo Amour T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Whirlwind T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

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Type:	Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches
GPS:	49.68766, -123.14493
FA:	Aaron Kristiansen, Keesha Dalley, May 2024. Pitches 4,5,6,7 FA: Mutch, Dunham & McKnight, 1963; Most of pitch 1 and 2 Smaill & Coulomb, 1977
Page Views:	383 total · 22/month
Shared By:	Aaron Kristiansen on Jun 27, 2024
Admins:	Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

P1: (5.8, 35m) Climb the large right facing corner, to a broad treed ledge above. Scramble up the ledge and belay below the arch.

P2: (5.10b, 30m) Climb the thin right facing corner pass the hanging cedar tree. Continue right, mantle up to first bolt. In-cut ledges, scoops and slab moves past two more bolts gains the next small treed ledge with a bolted anchor. Divide this pitch in two and belay at the cedar tree to avoid rope drag.

P3: (5.10a, 20m) Climb left across the ever narrowing foot traverse, clipping bolts. Finish on an enjoyable hands and finger crack.

P4: (5.9, 25m) Double Hand cracks, to a tenuous traverse left to the right facing corner. Bolted anchor.

P5: (5.7, 35m) The long wide right facing corner. Bolted anchor.

P6: (5.10d, 18m) Jam with all your might up this overhanging hand crack. Surprisingly positive handholds, and the Squamish tufa foothold will help take the sting out of this intimidating pitch. The steepest 5.10 on the Apron! Bolted anchor.

P7: (5.9, 15m) Straight up more fun exposed climbing traverse left on the wide crack to the finish. Bolted anchor.

Location

In the Squamish language there is no word for weather, but there are eleven words for rain.

Access: Approach the base of the Apron from the main trail at the South end of the Apron Parking lot. The start is 10m left of Read Between the Lines. This climb closely parallels Snake and could provide an interesting alternative to the first half or last half of that climb.